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b. Which gear should I be in?
The numerically lowest gear (1) is for the steepest hills. The numerically largest gear is for the greatest
speed.
Shifting from an easier, "slower" gear (like 1) to a harder, "faster" gear (like 2 or 3) is called an upshift.
Shifting from a harder, "faster" gear to an easier, "slower" gear is called a downshift. It is not necessary to shift
gears in sequence. Instead, find the "starting gear" for the conditions — a gear which is hard enough for quick
acceleration but easy enough to let you start from a stop without wobbling — and experiment with upshifting and
downshifting to get a feel for the different gears. At first, practice shifting where there are no obstacles, hazards
or other traffic, until you've built up your confidence. Learn to anticipate the need to shift, and shift to a lower
gear before the hill gets too steep. If you have difficulties with shifting, the problem could be mechanical
adjustment. See your dealer for help.
c. What if it won't shift gears?
If moving the shift control one click repeatedly fails to result in a smooth shift to the next gear chances are
that the mechanism is out of adjustment. Take the bike to your dealer to have it adjusted.
E. Pedals
1. Toe Overlap is when your toe can touch the front wheel when you turn the handlebars to steer while a pedal
is in the forwardmost position. This is common on small-framed bicycles, and is avoided by keeping the
inside pedal up and the outside pedal down when making sharp turns. On any bicycle, this technique will
also prevent the inside pedal from striking the ground in a turn.
WARNING: Toe Overlap could cause you to lose control and fall. Ask your dealer to help you
determine if the combination of frame size, crank arm length, pedal design and shoes you will use
results in pedal overlap. Whether you have overlap or not, you must keep the inside pedal up and the
outside pedal down when making sharp turns.
2. Some bicycles come equipped with pedals that have sharp and potentially dangerous surfaces. These
surfaces are designed to add safety by increasing grip between the rider's shoe and the pedal. If your bicycle
has this type of high-performance pedal, you must take extra care to avoid serious injury from the pedals'
sharp surfaces. Based on your riding style or skill level, you may prefer a less aggressive pedal design, or
chose to ride with shin pads. Your dealer can show you a number of options and make suitable
recommendations.
3. Toeclips and straps are a means to keep feet correctly positioned and engaged with the pedals. The toeclip
positions the ball of the foot over the pedal spindle, which gives maximum pedaling power. The toe strap,
when tightened, keeps the foot engaged throughout the rotation cycle of the pedal. While toeclips and straps
give some benefit with any kind of shoe, they work most effectively with cycling shoes designed for use with
toeclips. Your dealer can explain how toeclips and straps work. Shoes with deep treaded soles or welts
which might make it more difficult for you to insert or remove your foot should not be used with toeclips and
straps.
WARNING: Getting into and out of pedals with toeclips and straps requires skill which can only be
acquired with practice. Until it becomes a reflex action, the technique requires concentration which can
distract your attention and cause you to lose control and fall. Practice the use of toeclips and straps
where there are no obstacles, hazards or traffic. Keep the straps loose, and don't tighten them until your
technique and confidence in getting in and out of the pedals warrants it. Never ride in traffic with your
toe straps tight.
4. Clipless pedals (sometimes called "step-in pedals") are another means to keep feet securely in the correct
position for maximum pedaling efficiency. They have a plate, called a "cleat," on the sole of the shoe, which
clicks into a mating spring-loaded fixture on the pedal. They only engage or disengage with a very specific
motion which must be practiced until it becomes instinctive. Clipless pedals require shoes and cleats which
are compatible with the make and model pedal being used.
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