Shifting Gears - Tern Quick Haul D7i Bedienungsanleitung

bike. The lever reach may be adjustable; or you may need a different brake lever design.
fig. 20, fig. 21, fig. 22, fig. 23
6.C.2. How Brakes Work
The braking action of a bicycle is a function of the friction between the braking surfaces.
To make sure that you have maximum friction available, keep your wheel rims and
disc rotor and caliper clean and free of dirt, lubricants, waxes or polishes.
Brakes are designed to control your speed, not just to stop the bike. Maximum braking force for each
wheel occurs at the point just before the wheel "locks up" (stops rotating) and starts to skid. Once
the tire skids, you actually lose most of your stopping force and all directional control. You need to
practice slowing and stopping smoothly without locking up a wheel. The technique is called progressive
brake modulation. Instead of jerking the brake lever to the position where you think you'll generate
appropriate braking force, squeeze the lever, progressively increasing the braking force. If you feel
the wheel begin to lock up, release pressure just a little to keep the wheel rotating just short of lockup.
It's important to develop a feel for the amount of brake lever pressure required for each wheel at
different speeds and on different surfaces. To better understand this, experiment a little by walking
your bike and applying different amounts of pressure to each brake lever, until the wheel locks.
When you apply one or both brakes, the bike begins to slow, but your body wants to continue at
the speed at which it was going. This causes a transfer of weight to the front wheel (or, under heavy
braking, around the front wheel hub, which could send you flying over the handlebars).
A wheel with more weight on it will accept greater brake pressure before lockup;
a wheel with less weight will lock up with less brake pressure.
So, as you apply brakes and your weight is transferred forward, you need to shift your
body toward the rear of the bike, to transfer weight back on to the rear wheel; and at the
same time, you need to both decrease rear braking and increase front braking force. This
is even more important on descents, because descents shift weight forward.
Two keys to effective speed control and safe stopping are controlling wheel lockup and weight
transfer. This weight transfer is even more pronounced if your bike has a front suspension fork. Front
suspension "dips/compresses/dives" under braking, increasing the weight transfer. Practice braking
and weight transfer techniques where there is no traffic or other hazards and distractions.
Everything changes when you ride on loose surfaces or in wet weather. It will take longer to stop on
loose surfaces or in wet weather. Tire adhesion is reduced, so the wheels have less cornering and
braking traction and can lock up with less brake force. Moisture or dirt on the brake pads reduces
their ability to grip. The way to maintain control on loose or wet surfaces is to go more slowly.
6.D. Shifting Gears
Your multi-speed bicycle will have a derailleur drivetrain (6.D.1), an internal gear hub
drivetrain (6.D.2) or, in some special cases, a combination of the two.
6.D.1. Derailleurs
If your bicycle has a derailleur drivetrain, the gear-changing mechanism will have:
• A rear cassette or freewheel sprocket cluster
• A rear derailleur
• One or two shifters
• A drive chain
Shifting Gears
There are several different types and styles of shifting controls: levers, twist grips, triggers,
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