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Verfügbare Sprachen
Verfügbare Sprachen
low any bends or curves at all. Check also that the servo plate is
exactly horizontal in the fuselage.
Caution: The guide channel must not be compressed, other-
wise the servo slide will not be removable.
Roughen up the inside of the fuselage where the guide rail as-
sembly fits, and spot-glue it in place with s-minute epoxy. Be
sure to check that the servo plate does not obstruct the cabin
Irame. When the glue has set, remove the wings and servo slide
and apply a fillet of slow - setting epoxy to secure the plate.
Compression strut
In an abrupt landing, the wings will tend to swing forward and
crush the fuselage between the leading edges, and the remov-
able compression strut 11 avoids this danger. Cut an 8 mm dia-
meter hole in both root fairings where marked. lt is best to drill
the hole outto 7 mm diameter in stages, and then to lile it out ca-
refully until the strut is a light fit, otherwise there is a good
chance that you will lose the strut on the trip to the flying site. Cut
the compression strut to length, and check that it lies exactly
flush with the outside surface ofthe rootfairings.lt mustnot pro-
ject on either side.
Canopy
The fit of the canopy is one of the crucial factors in the overall
impression which a model aircraft makes, and for this reason
we strongly recommend taking particular care at this stage.
Take your time - the effort will be worthwhile.
Place the cabin frame on the fuselage, and check that the fit is
exactly righU it should be 1 mm smaller than the cabin flange all
round. Tape the frame on the fuselage. Drill the 3.5 mm diameter
hole where marked in the front of the cabin frame, and the 3 mm
diameter hole at the rear. Hold the drill at the angle shown, and
drill through the frame and the fuselage together. Insert the rivet
in thefront holeto check for fit, then remove the cabin lrame and
glue the rivet to the frame.
Drill out the rear hole in the tuselage to 5 mm diameter, and
check that the latch body 7 fits in the hole. Cut a slot (about 2
mm x'10 mm) in the fuselage for the actuating pin; use a 2 mm
diameter drill at first, then open out the slot using a small needle
file. Hold the latch in position and check that the actuating pin
can be operated. Roughen up the latch body and the inside of
the fuselage, and apply a drop ol oil to the pin at either end. The
latch is fixed in the luselage using s-minute epoxy. When the
glue has set, check that the latch stillworks, then apply a fillet of
slow- setting epoxy, preferably thickened as before, to secure it
permanently. Leave the fuselage inverted while the resin cures.
Retract the latch pin and sand the front face of the latch body
flush with the GRP tuselage flange. Check that the cabin frame
fits accurately, and that the latch closes easily. Trim the rear
hole in the cabin frame if necessary.
Fit the cabin frame on the fuselage and lock it in position. Check
thatit issmallerthanthecanopyflange
byabout 1 mmall round.
Sand the flange to lhe correct angle. Cut outthe canopy 5 along
the marked line.The idealtoolisthe curved scissors in the MUL-
TIPLEX accessory range. Trim the edge ol the canopy until it is a
perfect fit. lf you wish to paint the cabin lrame, this is your last
chance to do so.
To avoid soiling the fuselage, apply a coat ot release agent wax
or similar material around the canopy flange. lt can easily be po-
lished off again when the job is finished.
Position the canopy frame on the luselage and lock it in place
with the latch. Place the canopy over the frame and position it
accurately. Mark a line across canopy and fuselage at front and
rear along the centre seam using a water - soluble lelt - tip pen.
Clean the canopy and cabin frame.
An excellent adhesive for fixing the canopy to the frame is clear
contact cement. Apply a bead of cement to the edge of the
frame only. lt is essential to work rapidly, as the contact glue
must not be allowed to dry otf in the normal way.
Place the canopy on the frame, lining up the felt-tip marks. Fix
the canopy in place with strips oI tape, and carefully wipe ex-
cess glue onto the fuselage side. The contact cement can now
be left overnight to harden. This is not the usual method of using
this adhesive, but it is ideallor our purpose. The procedure gua-
rantees a perfect joint between canopy and cabin frame.
When the glue has set hard (at least 12 hours), carefully prise
the canopy away trom the fuselage, sliding a sharp knife bet-
ween them if necessary. Press the canopy moulding onto the
't6
cabin frame allround. Wipe otf the felt- tip marks. Checkthe ca-
nopy for fit, and carry out any final trimming required.
The canopy latch actuating pin can now be cut down carefully to
a minimum length, so that it is less conspicuous.
Aero - tow coupling
A simple and reliable aero - tow coupling can be installed asfol-
lows: file out a vertical slot about 2 x 5 mm in the right - hand fu-
selage side as lar forward as possible. Drill the hole with a
1.5 mm drill lirst, then file it out to shape.
Bend the plastic guide tube 26 and steel pushrod 37 to match
the curvature of the fuselage between the slot and the servo.
Solder a clevis to the end ol the steel rod, slip the rod into the
tube, and connect the clevis to the servo output arm, as close to
the pivot axis as possible.
When the servo output arm is at neutral, the end ofthe steel rod
should be visible in the slot. Cut the steel rod to length, and de-
burr the cut end.
Roughen up the guide tube and the luselage side, and epoxy the
tube in olace. with the rod central in the slot. Use scrap wood
strips to hold the guide tube against the fuselage while the glue
sets. Check that the system works reliably.
Tie a loop into the end of the tow cord, and fit the loop into the
slot. lt is retained by the wire pushrod.
Tailplane
Squeeze flat one end of the pivot tubes (53 front and 54 rear),
using a pair of pliers; this prevents the pivot dowels 22 and I
penetrating into the foam. Cut the pivot tube spacer strips l6, r.
and 18 to length, and arrange them in the machined slots as
shown in the drawing.
To ensure that the tailplane panels are correctly aligned with
each other, place the two panels on a flat board with the slots
up, and weight them down with the pivot dowels litting exactly in
the slots. Check carefully that the sections of the two panels are
exactly in line.
Apply strips of tape on the tailplane skins along the edge of the
machined slots, to keep glue from the surface. The pivot tubes
must be installed spaced correctly to match the all-moving
crank. The crank is supplied with a setting - up jig to help you
here. Fit the pivot dowels (3 mm diameter front,2 mm diameter
rear) through the appropriate holes in the jig, and fit the pivot
tubes onto the ends. Now glue the tubes and the corresponding
spacer strips into the tailplane panels.
Caution: the pivot tubes must not be glued to the dowels. Posi-
tion the pivot tubes sothatthey project by about3 mm atthe tail-
plane root.
When the glue has set hard, sand back the underside of the
spacer strips flush with the panel skin. Take care not to sand
into the skin itself. Use a sanding block about 300 x 60 x 19 mm,
with 8o-grit glasspaper glued onto one face. Cut the leadi
edge 13 to length and glue it to the panel, using strips of tape td
hold it in place. Plane it to the profile shown in the sectional dra-
wings, and sand to final shape. Sand off the ends of the leading
edge, checking that the faces are flat and true.
Drill the holes in the root ribs 15 where marked (4 mm diameter
front, 3 mm diameter rear), and glue them to the tailplane pa-
nels. Sand back the root rib flush with the tailplane skins, and
sand the oivot tube ends flush.
Cut the tips 14 to length, glue them to the panels, and sand them
back flush. Round ott the edges as shown. Sand down the trail-
ing edge to an even thickness of no more than 1mm.
Drill through the pivot holes in the fin using a 4 mm diameter drill,
drilling from both sides. Roughen up one end of the steel rod 48,
slip a clevis 40 onto it, and bend the final 2 mm ol the pushrod at
right angles. Slide the clevis back as far as it will go, and solder it
tothe rod,taking careto produce asoundioint. Connectthe cle-
vistothe bottom hole inthecrank, and slidethe pushrod intothe
upper bowden cable outer from the rear. Position the crank so
that the pivot tube can be threaiied through it from the outside.
Cut the pivot tube to length, roughen up the ends and fit it
through the fuselage, threading the crank onto it on the inside.
Cutting the curved rear slot is a simple job, using a 2 mm drill as
a cutter, with the aid of the tront pivot dowel and the alignment
jig. Fit the pivot dowels 22 and 23, and plug in the tailplane pa-
nels. Check that they are accurately aligned: the tailplane musl
be exactly at right-angles to the fin. Check that the system
works correctly: the rear pivot dowel 23 must not rub on the
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