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Verfügbare Sprachen
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top and bottom ends. Trim the prepared parts to fit accurately,
then glue them to the bridge deck and the side panels - but not
to the deck.
Remove the superstructure again when the glue has set hard.
Bend the handrails 145 to the shape shown on the plan. Cut the
handrail stanchions 146 to length and solder them to the han-
drails. Glue the completed handrail assembles to the upper bul-
wark and the companionway on both sides.
The railing for the bridge deck can now be assembled: cut two
rails 147 to approximate length and fit four stanchions 148 on
each. Fit the stanchions in the appropriate holes, bending the
rails to shape as you go. Cut the rails to exact length and sol-
der them to the railing stanchions.
Make up the left-hand (port) side railing as described above,
using the rails 149 and the railing stanchions 150. Before the
right-hand (starboard) side railing can be made, the railing stan-
chion 151 must be shortened at the top. Cut the bottom rail 153
to approximate length and fit the shortened railing stanchion
151 and the two stanchions 152 on it.
Glue the railing stanchions in the holes in the bridge deck. Cut
the top rail 154 to length and fit it through the holes in the rai-
ling stanchions 152. Trim the rail ends if required, then solder
the rails to the stanchions.
Glue the mushroom ventilator 155, the liferaft 156, the stern
light 157 and the three lifebelts 158 to the model in the positions
shown on the plan.
The next stage is to prepare parts 159 - 161, which are assem-
bled to form the ventilators. Bevel the ventilator base 159 and
the ventilator arm 160 at 45°, and solder them together to form
a right-angled joint. Apply two-pack adhesive to the ventilator
ring 161 and fit it on the ventilator arm.
The completed ventilators can now be glued in the appropriate
holes in the engine room.
Locate the portholes 162 for the engine room and the wheel-
house, place the clear lenses in them and secure each with a
drop of cyano. The portholes can now be glued in the appro-
priate openings in the engine room and the wheelhouse. Cut
out the top and bottom shells of the inflatable boat 163, and
sand the joint faces flat.
Glue the shells together using cyano, and sand the joint edges
when the glue has set hard. The correct spacing for the boat
supports 164 is shown on the plan; mark the positions on the
inflatable boat and glue the supports to it. Glue the complete
assembly to the bridge deck when the glue has hardened.
The light shaft for the engine room is assembled from parts 165
- 167 as shown on the plan. Fix the lenses in the portholes 168
with a drop of cyano, then glue them in the openings in the light
shaft roof 167.
The towing gear 169 can now be assembled, as described in
the instructions supplied with the set. Cut out the engine room
hatch 170 along the marked lines and trim it as shown on the
plan. Cut the holes for the two portholes 171. Cut the screw-
holes for the towing gear 169.
Fix the lenses in the portholes with a drop of cyano, then glue
them in the holes in the hatch. The towing gear can now be
attached to the engine room hatch using the screws supplied.
Assembly and operating instructions
Neptun
18
The light shaft and the engine room hatch are next prepared for
fitting. First cover these areas of the deck with polythene film to
prevent the parts becoming stuck to it.
Place the deck superstructure on the boat, trim the light shaft
to fit and glue it in place. Repeat the procedure with the com-
pleted engine room hatch; note that the towing gear may need
to be adjusted slightly, or moved forward a little, if the rotary
guide fouls the rear wall of the engine room. You will need to
loosen the screws to move it.
Completing the deck
Glue the grating 172 to the deck forward of the companion-
ways, as shown in the plan view.
Bend the hawser bars 173 and 174 to the shapes shown on the
plan, and glue them to the deck. The ABS strips are easier to
bend if you first heat them in water at about 60°C, after cutting
them to length.
Tie the tyre fenders 175 to the bulwark using short lengths of
the cord 176, threading the cords through the pre-drilled holes.
This concludes the work on the deck. The superstructure can
now be removed.
Drill a 1 mm Ø hole in the retaining block 177 and the retaining
strip 178, and fit a ring-screw 179 in each. Glue the retaining
block to the mounting plate 24, and the retaining strip to the
inside of the engine room 83. Connect the rubber band 180 bet-
ween the two hooks in such a way that the superstructure can
be removed, but is held tightly on the deck under normal con-
ditions so that it cannot shift by itself. Connect the towing haw-
ser to the towing hook.
Balancing, testing the working systems
Give the drive battery a full charge, then install it in the boat.
Mark the Construction Water Line (C.W.L.) on the bow and stern
of the model; it is indicated on the plan.
Place the superstructure and winches on the boat. Fill the bath
with water, and place the model in it. It should now float at the
marked waterline, and must be upright (i.e. not leaning to either
side). If necessary, add lead ballast until it floats exactly as des-
cribed.
Secure any required ballast with two-pack adhesive, so that
there is no chance of it coming loose. Connect the batteries and
repeat the earlier test of the RC system.
When you are satisfied that everything is working properly, you
and the boat are ready for the maiden run.
robbe Modellsport GmbH & Co. KG
We reserve the right to alter technical specifications.
No.
1030
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