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On no account swap over the wires between the speed con-
troller and the drive battery, as this will wreck the controller.
When you have completed the adjustment / checking procedu-
re, disconnect the batteries and remove them from the boat,
together with all the loose receiving system components.
If you install the RC system as shown on the plan, you will need
to add about 200 g of lead ballast. This should be glued in place
while the hull is still open; it is best located to right and left of
the stern tube support.
Final trimming can only be carried out when the model is com-
pletely finished. The rudder system and the radio components
remaining in the hull should be covered with polythene film to
avoid them being damaged by excess glue during the remain-
der of the building procedure.
The deck
Use cyano-acrylate ("cyano") for all glued joints between the
ABS parts and the deck, and all ABS - ABS joints.
The first step is to separate the deck 42 from the die-cut sheet.
Bend the excess material along the die-stamped lines once or
twice, then bend it down and peel it away to one side. Use the
same procedure to remove the unwanted material in the rect-
angular deck openings.
Sand the cut edges of the deck smooth, then trim it to fit the
hull. While the hull flange is still attached to the moulding, it is
easy to pick up and correct any tight areas or minor inaccura-
cies in the fit. If necessary, trim back the deck at the bow or the
stern, but not along the sides. When you are satisfied that the
deck fits really accurately, remove it from the hull.
Cut out the vacuum-moulded coaming 43 and trim it to fit in the
deck opening from the underside. When you are satisfied, tack
the two parts together by applying individual drops of robbe
Speed cyano at approx. 50 mm intervals, taking care to check
that the deck conforms to the camber of the coaming. After tak-
king the parts together, allow cyano to run right round the joint
on the underside of the deck.
Cut out the towing winch base 44 and sand the edges flat.
Measure off the correct length of the square-section ABS strips
45 and 46 to fit inside the underside of the base, and cut them
to length. Glue the strip framework round the front hatch ope-
ning using cyano, taking care to keep the strips at right-angles
to each other.
To improve the water seal an additional sealing strip frame is
now prepared and glued in the towing winch base; this consists
of parts 47 and 48: place the winch base on the deck and invert
the deck. The correct lengths of the fore-and-aft sealing strips
47 can now be marked.
Cut the strips to length, place them inside the winch base, and
tack each one in place with two drops of cyano. Now mark the
length of the transverse strips 47.
Place the winch base on the deck again and fit the trimmed
transverse strips 48 between the fore-and-aft strips 47. Again
tack them in place with two drops of cyano each. Remove the
winch base again, and apply a thorough fillet of glue to the
completed sealing strip framework.
Assembly and operating instructions
Neptun
15
Cut out the warping winch base 49 and sand the underside flat.
Measure off the correct length of the square-section ABS strips
50 and 51 to fit inside the underside of the base, and cut the
strips to length.
Glue the strip frame over the rear hatch opening using cyano,
ensuring that the strips are at right-angles to each other.
Now that you have completed the deck to this stage, it can be
glued to the hull, starting at the bow.
Tack the extreme front end of the deck to the hull using cyano,
holding the rear end up. Lower the deck gradually onto the hull
flange, applying individual drops of cyano at regular intervals,
until you reach the stern.
Allow the glue to set hard, then apply more cyano to complete
the joint: hold the hull at a slight angle and apply a few drops of
cyano between the deck and the projecting hull flange. Now tilt
and turn the hull slowly so that the cyano runs along the entire
length of the flange and back to the starting point again.
This procedure fixes the deck to the hull and provides an effec-
tive, all-round seal.
The projecting hull flange can now be removed by scoring it
repeatedly along the inside using a sharp knife, holding the
blade as close to horizontal as possible. Carefully cut down
through the flange from the top edge to the deck at one point,
bend the flange to and fro to weaken it at the separation line,
then remove it from the hull, taking care not to crack the glued
joint. Sand the cut edge carefully all round.
Cut out the vacuum-moulded bulwark 52, taking particular care
to file out the scuppers neatly.
Place the prepared bulwark on the hull and tack it in place in the
usual way, applying individual drops of cyano at regular inter-
vals. Note that the bulwark should be positioned in such a way
that the flange of the moulding completely covers the edge of
the hull.
The next stage is to glue the bulwark to the deck all round, but
please take care to avoid excess cyano running out through the
scuppers and onto the hull surface. When you are finished, drill
all the holes in the bulwark in the positions shown on the plan.
Towing winch, warping winch
Drill holes at the marked points in the towing winch base 44.
Wind several turns of towing hawser 54 (thread) onto the large
winch drum 53, and tack it in place. Form the end of the thread
into a loop and glue the joint.
Slip the shaft 55 in one end of the winch, and fit the drum 53
and the brake drum 56 on it. Fit the capstan heads 57 on both
ends of the shaft and secure them with one drop of cyano each.
Glue the handwheels 58 to the winch base. Bend the gearbox
lever 60 to the shape shown. Drill holes in the base and glue the
gear lever 59 and the gearbox lever 60 in them.
Warping winch
Drill holes for the shaft 61 in the winch base 49 at the marked
points. Wind the rope 63 (thread) onto the winch drum 62 and
tack it in place with cyano.
Form the other end of the rope into a loop and tack the ends
No.
1030
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