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The cross coaming 110 and the longitudinal
coaming 111 are glued in place according to the
plan.
Next, plank the deck and glue on the centre strip
of deck planking 112. According to the plan, apply
the further planking 113 and then sand the entire
deck.
Fit the fender strips 114 to 116 and the cover strip
117 according to the plan and cuts A/A and B/B.
Then sand and prime everything. It is advisable to
cover the plastic hull underneath the fender strip
with tape.
The hatch frames 118 and 119 are made and
sanded according to Fig.16. Then glue on the
hatch roof 120.
Sand and prime the bulkhead mouldings 121 and
finish them immediately, as a clean paint job is
only possible with great effort after gluing them
into the hull. Mark the position of the strips in the
hull according to the plan and then glue the cut-to-
length bulkhead strips in place.
The roof frame is made from parts 122 to 126.
You will find help for this in Fig.17.
As the canopy can be removed, it is necessary to
leave a small gap between the canopy wall and
the canopy frame. You can achieve this by
sticking two layers of Sellotape into the cabin.
This film also prevents the roof from sticking to the
cabin wall.
Roof frames and longitudinal spars are oversized
and must be fitted. Until the glue has hardened,
the frame parts are held to the edge of the cabin
with clamps. Carry out this work carefully, the
better the cabin roof will fit.
Now you can glue in the reinforcement corners
126.
When dry, remove the tape and, if necessary,
sand the top of the frame to match the cabin.
The roof 127 is now carefully fixed with one clamp
each in the middle of the frame, further clamps
are also carefully placed up to the edge so that
there is no tension. Now turn the whole roof
assembly around and glue the roof and frame
from the inside with super glue.
Glue the skylight sides 128 at an angle to the front
and rear parts 129, fit them to the cabin roof 127
and glue them.
Then glue on roof 130.
Prime and paint the ventilation flaps 131, but glue
them in place only after the model has been given
its final coat of paint.
The bow and stern blocks 132/133 are sanded,
primed and glued.
The final lacquering is done by applying three to
four coats of matt or silk matt synthetic resin
lacquer.
Glue the rudder wheel 134 with the spacers 135
and the screw 136 into the rudder wheel holder 78
according to the plan.
According to Fig.18 the table is glued together
from parts 137 to 140 and finished.
Seite 6
© Krick Modelltechnik, Germany, Dezember 2021
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