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Krick Modelltechnik Karl und Marie Bauanleitung Seite 25

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Cover the transom itself with strips 23 on the inside and with strips 24 on the outside in the
usual way. If you want to be very exact you can now cut out the scuppers (the slits in the
bulwark). These scuppers are necessary so that water breaking over the ship can flow off.
Measure the deck height on the inside, apply the measurement on the outside and drill a
hole with 2 mm diameter at the beginning and end of every scupper. The holes must not
be frayed at the outside. The exact position of the scuppers follows from the side view
page 1.
Connect the appropriate drill holes with a ruler and make a careful incision with a knife.
You can then remove the outside planking first. This process of cutting and filing out ne-
cessitates a lot of attention. You can also leave out the scuppers. Your ship will look good
anyway.
Cut the bulwark supports 25 to length and glue them to the insides 15 mm apart according
fig. 7. Sand these supports flush with the upper edge.
Prebend the railing strips 26 and 27 out of the Birch wood bending wood and glue them
to the bulwark. This strip should protrude about 1,5 mm at the outside. The arrangement
can be seen from fig. 6. After drying, glue bannister 28, davit 39 and banister 29 onto the
railing according to fig. 7. Glue on the wale 30 as per side view and fig. 6 and 7.
Loosen the rudder l from the keel board, saw out the cutouts for the oar hinges according
to fig. 8 and file a rectangular pin 4 x 2 mm on top. Then cover the rudder with strips 33.
Remove the hinge parts 34, 35 and 46 from the etched sheet brass, bend them around
the rudder bearings 37 according to fig. 8 and glue them in place without filling up the drill
hole. Fit the hinge parts to rudder and stern stem and fasten them with pinched-off nails
and epoxide glue.
Construct the tiller 37 according to fig. 9. Drill the hole for the rudder pin and file it out rec-
tangularity with a warding file. Don't forget the 1 mm drilling for the rudder tackle.
Construct the parts 40 to 49 according to figs. 10 to 13 and glue the round wood to the
square retaining blocks with wood glue. Cut out the notches in railing and banister for log-
gerheads 42 and jibs 43 according to the top view on page 3. Fit all parts 40 to 49 to the
hull and glue them in place. Glue a scrap piece of strip 1,5 x 5 mm under each pin rail 48
and 49 to serve as support. Then glue the cleats 50 to 63 to the ship's wall.
Your last work before the paint job will be putting in the slits for the channel irons 111. The
right positions are found on page 1 whereas the passage through the railing is shown in
fig. 14. Drill several holes of 1 mm from the outside to the inside next to each other and cut
the wood in between with a sharp, pointed knife. Mounting the channel irons only takes
place after the masts are in place.
Now sand down the entire hull with sanding paper (grain 300) without breaking the edges.
Then you paint three times with a pore-filling agent that is not too thick. We recommend
Seite 24 - Bauanleitung Karl & Marie - 20200 DE

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