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Verfügbare Sprachen
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For a straight hull and simple assembly you will need a level board, namely the slip board.
You can use the table plate glued together from sticks or veneered particle board as used
in cabinet-making. The board should have a length of at least 47 cm and be ca. 25 mm
thick. Above all, it should not be warped. Please do not try to build up a hull freehand. It
will only come out bent and uneven.
Use the plywood scraps and the strip for the slip. Divide the strip and nail it onto the board
with thin wire nails so that the keel fits in snugly and stands up vertically. The arrangement
is shown in figure 1 and 2.
Now saw 6 slip angles at exact right angles 60 x 60 mm from the plywood scraps. Fasten
these angles to the construction board with rapid glue, but not to the keel, since it will be
taken off later. You must arrange the slip angles so that the slits visible in the keel remain
free.
You will find the keel itself and the parts 2, 31, 397 and 398 precut on a plywood board.
You can best cut out these parts with a pointed sharp knife.
Remove the two reinforcements 3 from the laser cut board No, 5. The reinforcements and
the stern piece are glued together at the keel with wood glue so that later the rudder 3
fits through, as shown in actual size in fig. 3. Set the frames onto the keel only when this
bond is dry.
The frames 4 to 14 are laser cut on the boards 1 to 3. The slits in the keel and frames
should never be so narrow as to jam when assembled. A little play is better so that you
can more easily align the frames during assembly.
Now - after having set up your slipboard according to fig. 1 - insert the keel as shown in
fig. 2. Fig. 4 shows you how to insert the frames 4 to 14. The upper edges of all frames
should be flush with the upper edge of the keel. The frames should not jam but be easy to
slide in. If one slit is too low that is not a big problem. Simply attach the frame in the right
position with rapid glue. Before you glue the frames to the keel for good, make sure that
all frames are in true alignment. A hull with bulges or dents in the planking will spoil the
entire model. When you're sure that all frames are positioned right (your eyes must be the
judge here), glue them to the keel.
Follow figure 5 in fitting the deck onto the hull skeleton, if necessary file slits to order until
they fit easily, and glue keel, frames and deck together with wood glue. Let the glue dry
out over night and make sure there is a regular glue clamp on all glue points. The fairing
necessary after drying necessitates stable bonds.
Check the outside edges of the frames by laying on a strip, the so-called fairing batten.
You will now see clearly that the fairing batten is not really snug with the frames. The
frames must therefore be bevelled („faired"). Now work the frames with a sandpaper file
until their edges are bevelled enough for the planking strips to fit snugly.
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