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Part 2.
Instructions
1.
Before starting on the actual model, you must first build a cradle to keep the hull straight during
the critical stages of construction. An example of this is shown on page five, Abb. 1. in the booklet. The
materials are not supplied in the kit and will have to be bought separately. You will need a flat base
approximately 600mm in length and 200mm in width, two strips of 10mm by 10mm hardwood for the keel
to slot into, and plywood (about 1:6" thick ) for the keel supports as shown in the drawings.
2.
Identify and cut off the false keel (no. 1) and all the bulkheads (2-13) from their plywood sheets.
Place the keel into the building cradle and dry fit the bulkheads into their respective slots as shown on page
six, Abb. 2 and 3 in the instruction booklet. if any bulkheads are too tight, file the slots until a snug fit is
achieved. Once you are satisfied that all bulkheads fit properly, glue them into position with the aid of a T -
square to ensure that they are all angled correctly. To ensure the bulkheads stay in their correct positions
whilst the glue is drying, temporarily dry fit the deck into position and then leave for about 24 hours.
3.
Before gluing the deck in place, mark out the centre line, the hole for the position of the
carronade and the position of the other deck fittings using plan 2. It is less convenient marking these
positions once the deck is permanently fixed into place. Slot and glue the deck into place, using pins at the
edge of the deck to avoid the deck springing up whilst the glue is drying, leave the glue to dry completely
before fitting the bow and stern blocks. Sort out the bow blocks, nos: 15, 16 and 17 and the stern blocks,
no: 18. Referring to the German instruction booklet on page 7 Abb. 5 and 6, fit and glue the blocks into their
respective positions. Mark out and cut parts numbered 19 (1.5x5x160mm) into their correct lengths and
glue them the underneath edge of the stern of the deck. When the glue is fully dry, sand the bulkheads,
blocks and deck edge to ensure the maximum area of contact for the planks to lie. Constantly monitor your
progress by placing a planking strip across the length of the bulkheads.
4.
The first layer of planking can now be applied using 1.5x5x600mm line strips (no:20.) To give the
planks more flexibility, soak them in warm water for a couple of hours. Start planking just below the deck
line, working from bow to stern using glue and nails. It is advisable not to push the nails all the way in as
they have to come out again once the planking is finished. After the first planks have been glued and
pinned into place on either side, dry fit the next plank and mark out where it overlaps the above plank and
taper and bevel accordingly. This also applies to the stern in order to allow the planks to run as naturally as
possible. Glue the planks edge to edge as well as to the bulkheads, wiping any excess glue with a damp
cloth. Follow this procedure until you work your way down to the keel, planking two or three planks
alternatively on both sides of the hull to avoid warping. You will find that there are a few triangular shaped
gaps at the stern. These are filled in by using scrap planks, which should be marked out and cut to shape
and glued into position.
To finish the first planking, plank the bulwarks at and above the deck line. When the glue has dried
thoroughly, sand the whole hull down, first using coarse grade abrasive paper, going down to fine grade
until the hull is smooth. Cut and trim the stern bulwark planks to their correct angle for the stern transom
using the plans as a reference.
5.
The second planing is done using 1x5x600mm walnut strips (no. 21). The method used is the
same as the first planking except that the whole surface of the second planking is glued to the first planking
as well as edge to edge, remembering again to wipe any excess glue while it is still wet. When the hull is
completely planked and the glue has dried, remove the nails and start to sand starting with a medium grade
abrasive paper, and then a fine grade. Do not use a coarse grade as the planking is only 1mm thick and
scratches may be made too deep to remove.
6.
Plank the stern post, keel and bow using 0.5xl0mm walnut strips (no. 22). Use plan 1 and page
11 Abb 9 and 10 in the German instruction booklet for the correct placing.
7.
Make the stand by using the templates on plan 1. you will need a sheet of plywood (about 1:16")
and a base (not supplied in the kit). Cut out the shapes of the cradles using a fretsaw, and glue them to the
base, measuring the distance apart using plan 1.
© Krick Modelltechnik Stand 06/2005
Instructions 20240 Krick
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