Multiplex DG-600 Bauanleitung Seite 17

the inside surface of one ol the two flanged bushes on 400
grade wet - and -dry abrasive paper to remove a little material.
Adjust the tightness of the pivot screw carefully, and secure the
nut with 5 - minute epoxy when you are satisfied.
Betore the bellcrank assembly is installed in the wing, a little
foam must be removed around the well, as shown in the draw-
ing. Work carefully here to avoid damaging the wing structure.
Pass one steel pushrod 40 into the bowden cable outer tube
from the wing root end, and slide it as far as the bellcrank. Pull
the end oI the rod out ol the bellcrank well slightly, roughen up
the end, thread a clevis 39 onlo it and bend the final 2 mm oI the
wire at right - angles. Slide the link right to the end and solder it
soundly to the rod. Connect the clevis to the bellcrank (using
the hole shown on the plan) and tit the bellcrank mount in the
wing well. Check that the bellcrank rotates lreely when the rod
is operated. Shift the bowden cable outer tube in the wing, and
pull it back from the aileron bellcrank welljust far enough to en-
sure that the clevis does not foul it at maximum movement.
It is important not to move the bowden cable outer more than is
absolutely necessary (maximum 10 mm f rom the clevis at full
throw), to prevent the steel rod flexing under compression.
Check that the beilcrank and the associated linkage do not
touch the foam at any point.
The bowden cable outei is normally lree to move inside the
wing. lI you find it isfixed,twist asmallroundfile into it at the root
end. Carefully twist the tube to and lro until it is released from
the wing skin. Do not use force under any circumstances. The
bowden cable outer can now be shifted as required. Take great
care not to pull it out too far, as it is exceedingly difficult to push
it back into the wing again.
Set the bellcrank to its neutral position and mark where the
threaded pushrod 37 crosses the sealing strip when the rod is
at right-angles to the aileron leading edge. Using a pointed
round file cut a tunnel from the sealing strip through the foam to
the bellcrank well. Screw a clevis onto the threaded pushrod,
and bend the rod as shown in the drawing. Pass it through the
.tunnel and connect the clevis to the bellcrank, as shown in the
drawing. Hold the aileron against the wing, with equal clearance
at either end, and mark the position of the aileron horn 28. File
out the horn slot in the aileron and hollow out the foam slightly.
Apply strips of tape round the slot to avoid soiling the surlace
with glue, then glue the horn into its slot, using plenty of epoxy.
The position of the horn - and in particularthe position oI the lin-
kage hole relative to the hinge line - must be identical on both ai-
lerons, otherwise they will not have equal movement.
Glue the bellcrank assembly 19 into the wing, using 5 - minule
epoxy, checking that the mount is sufficiently deep in the wing,
and that no glue gets onto the bellcrank to jam it up.
Temporarily hinge the aileron to the wing with strips of tape and
pin it at neutral. Set the bellcrank to neutral also. Mark the point
at which the pushrod crosses the horn, and bend the rod at
right-angles at that point. Cut the angled end down to a length of
10 mm and connect it to the horn. The entire aileron linkage can
now be checked for correct ooeration. The aileron should be
able to detlect about 40 degrees up and 20 degrees down, and
must notjam up or rub at any point. Adjustthe linkagewhere ne-
cessary until this is the case.
Installing the aileron servos in the wings
We can only provide general guidelines here, as servos vary so
greatly in size and mounting provisions.
You must decide at the outset whether the hatch over the servo
well is to be removable or glued in place. A removable hatch se-
verely weakens lhe wing, and you must remedy this by installing
reinforcing webs in a spanwise direction. We recommend
spruce or plywood strips of appropriate size.
However, in practice a permanently sealed servo well has
proled an excellent alternative. Servo failure is extremely rare,
and if this should happen the hatch can easily be cut out and re-
placel with a new one. This method is much simpler and does
not weaken the wing signif icantly.
Installing the servo extension lead is very simple, as the bowden
cable outer is free to move inside the wing. Pull the outer out of
the servo well slightly, cut off the end oI the extension lead at an
angle and glue it into the outer with a drop of instant glue. Now
pull the bowden cable outer out of the wing from the root end
and the lead will be pulled through the wing with it.
We strongly advise the use of separation filters if you intend ins-
1 8
talling servos in the wings. The manulacturer of your radio will
advise you what is required, and the filter should be fitted at the
wing root end of the lead, as close to the receiver as possible.
The MULTIPLEX extension lead set including separation filter is
a v a i l a b l e u n d e r O r d e r N o . 8 5 1 3 8
The linkage between aileron servo and aileron is completed with
an M2 threaded pushrod with a clevis 52 fitted at the horn end,
to provide a means of adjustment. Check that the servo output
arm can move freely to both ends of its travel.
Wingtips and plug - in tip extensions
Sealone end ofthe brasstubes 24and 27, eitherwith glueorby
squeezing. Push the brass tubes into the sockets in the plug - in
panels and the wing paneltips,4 mm diameter at the lront and
3 mm diameter at the rear. Fit the steel dowels 26 and 27, and
join the extensions to the wings. Check for alignment and make
any adjustments reqired. Epoxy the tubes in their sockets, join
the wings and extensions, and set them in their foam negative
shells while the epoxy cures. The brass tubes should project by
about 3 mm. Drill holes where marked in the tio ribs 18. an bevel
the holes so that they lit at the correct angle. Glue one tip rib to
the wing panel tip, secure withe tape an allow the glue to har-
den. Sand back the brass tubes flush with the rib, then fix the
second tio rib to the first with small Dieces oI double - sided Sel-
lotape. Applx epoxy to the root face ot the plug - in extensions in
place, using a flat sanding block. Cut the tip blocks 23 to length
and mark on the tip block the position of the brass tubes in rA€
wingtip. Drill 5 mm diameter holes at the appropriate angle (t..,r,
3 mm, rear 2 mm). Bend the locating pins 48 and 49 to a gentle
"S" shape, so that theuy are an interference fit in the brass
tubes, and lug them into the brass tubes in the wing. Fit the tips
and sand the mating faceto obtain aclose fit. Mask oft the tip rib
with tape and pierce it where the pins pass through. Apply epo-
xy to the holes in the tip block and plug it onto the pins. The tape
will prevent it becoming glued to the wing. Press the block
against the wingtip, secure with tape, and allow the resin to
cure. Carefully prise off the tip block, sliding a thin knife blade
between tip block and wing tip. Remove the tape, plug in the tip
block and sand smooth.
Airbrakes
The DG 600 is factory -fitted with twin - blade super-airbrakes
as standard; all you need to do is complete the linkage and fit
the blades.
Bend the final 2 mm ol lhe steel pushrod 41 at right - angles, fit a
metal clevis and solder the joint well.
Rotate the airbrake levers to the upright position, pulling the ac-
tuating mechanism towards the wing root to raise the end lever.
Thread the pushrod into the outer, positioning the rod underthe
tront - tacing pins on the levers. This is essential if the brake 1
is to function correctly. When the airbrake is closed, these f--6
hold the pushrod in position. Thread the rod into the bowden
cable and connect the clevis to the lug on the actuating me-
chanism. Check that the brake functions correctly.
The brake blades can now be fitted using the screws 53:first the
lower blade 52, then the upper blade 51. Please take particular
care at this stage; it is essentialthat the shallow flange on the
screw head engages in the brake blade, otherwise the brake
unit will not operate reliably, without jamming. Because of the
thinness ot the screw head, be sure to use a screwdriver with a
perfectly square blade tip, and work carefully. Take care also
not to bend or distort the blades. They can easily be straigh-
tened if necessary. Check that the brake system works correct-
ly.
Cutthe brake cap 54to length,trim tofit, andglue it in placewith
contact adhesive. Do not use 5 - minute epoxy lor this joint, as
you risk gluing the airbrake mechanism to the wing, which inva-
riably results in serious damage to the structure. Sand the brake
cap to section, using no more than moderate pressure. The use
of the screws 53 as pivots allows the user to remove the brake
blades and replace them a few times, which can be very useful
at the finishing stage. Nevertheless, always take great care, and
never use lorce.
Wing joiner blades
The next step is to glue the wing joiner blades and the locating
pins 48 into the wings. The blade box is deliberately slightly