Rotomec TILL-RITE Betriebsanleitung Seite 11

ENGLISH
lengthening the turnbuckle will lower the roller and the tiller will work
shallower.
3.03 - Rear Shield Adjustment
The rear shield (see #2, fig. 6), for safety reasons, must always remain
in contact with the ground. This also ensures better pulverisation of the
soil and helps level it out.
Raise rear shield to the desired position. Hook the chain (see #1, fig. 6)
to the chain hitches (see #3 & 4, fig. 6).
3.04 - Attaching to the Tractor
Unit may be used on tractors equipped with a standard rear PTO and
cat. 1 three point hitch. Be sure your specific tiller is suited for your
particular tractor (see table 1).
To attach the tiller to the tractor, back the tractor up to the tiller in order
to slip the tractor hitch arms over the hitch pins attached to the sliding
frame. Turn off the tractor engine. The hitch pin (see #1, fig. 7) may be
positioned in either the top or bottom hole position, depending on drive
line length and tractor size.
Lock the tractor arms to the tiller hitch arms with the lynch pins.
Stabilisers must be used to limit side swing to 5-7 cm. (2"-3").
Attach the top link. Adjust it so the tiller is as near parallel to the ground
as possible. A 1 to 2 degree rearward tilt is acceptable (see fig. 8).
DANGER: never attempt to attach the tiller to the tractor or make
any adjustments to the tiller without first turning the tractor off.
WARNING: check the tractor PTO rpm to ensure it is set at the
correct rpm speed and turns clockwise.
3.05 - Driveline
Carefully read and file away the driveline operator's manual supplied by
the manufacturer. The following does not substitute the information
found in the drive line manual.
Avoid working or transporting equipment with the PTO shaft in its
maximum extending length. While working the telescopic tubes should
1
overlap of at least / their length. In the collapsed position the driveline
3
should be approximately 5 cm. (2") from bottoming out to prevent
possible damage to the tractor or implement. When the PTO is in the
maximum extended position, the ideal minimum overlap of the two
halves should be approximately 15 cm. (6") (see #1, fig. 10).
Attach the PTO chains so to allow the drive shaft unrestricted
movement under all conditions of work or transport.
DANGER: only use the original driveline supplied with this tiller,
and always with the safety shielding.
WARNING: always work with the driveline as straight as possible.
This will prolong its life and that of its components. It is advised,
not to work at an angle greater than 15 degrees.
3.06 - Safety Slip Clutch
The tiller is supplied with a safety slip clutch, it is important to ensure it
is working properly. The slip clutch delivered with your machine is set at
a specific torque for normal working conditions.
If while working, the clutch slips frequently, the spring nuts need to be
1
tightened / turn (see #2, fig. 10). Check the clutch after 200-250 m.
2
(600-800 ft.), if necessary repeat the operation. If after tightening the
nuts down and the clutch continues to slip, the discs will have to be
replaced.
Follow the instructions in reverse, if while working under normal
conditions the clutch does not slip at all.
3.07 - Transporting
During transport or when the machine is lifted from the ground, it is
advised to adjust the tractor lift arms in order to be able to raise the
machine 35-40 cm. (14"-16") from the ground (see fig. 9).
ROTOMEC
4 - MAINTENANCE
4.01 - LUBRICATION
1. Hourly: remove any wrapping (stalks, weeds, trash, etc.) from
tiller, especially from around bearing supports on the rotor ends.
2. Daily: ensure blades are not broken and bolts are tight. Grease
the rotor and the roller support bearings, the driveline cross &
bearings and telescopic tubes. Check the gearbox for oil level
(SAE 90 wt).
3. Weekly: check the blades for excessive wear or damage. Ensure
the rotor turns freely. Look at the chain in the chain case and
make sure it is well lubricated (see #2, fig. 2).
4. After the first 200 hours: remove the chain case cover (being
sure not to damage the gasket), clean the chain sprockets with
kerosene, replace the sprockets and reassemble using fresh GP
Grease, approximately 1 kg. (2.2 lb.).
4.02 - Blades Replacement
It is important to change blades after they have worn down to 2.5-3
1
cm. (1"-1 / ") from their original length. When replacing blades, it is
4
best to replace them one at the time to maintain the original scroll
pattern. If, however, it becomes necessary to remove them all, it is
essential to maintain the original scroll pattern of the blades when
replacing them (see fig. 11). To do this, remove one blade and
immediately replace it with a new one. Be sure the bolt head (see #3,
fig. 12) is touching the blade (see #4, fig. 12), while the washer and nut
(see #5 & 6, fig. 12) contact the flange (see #2, fig. 12) of the rotor
(see #1, fig. 12). Sometimes a lock nut is used instead of a lock
washer and nut. Proceed until all blades are changed. After putting on
the new blades, tighten the nuts to their proper torque specifications.
To determine if the blade is right or left hand:
1. hold the blade in the palm of the hand with the bend pointing
upward,
2. if the cutting edge points toward the right and the "ROTOMEC"
label is visible then the blade is right-handed,
3. if it points to the left and the "ROTOMEC" label is not visible then
this indicates a left-handed blade.
4.
DANGER: when replacing blades, take extreme care and always
use proper gloves. Blades are sharp. Always work in such a way
as to pull the wrench towards you when tightening bolts to avoid
slipping and cutting your hand.
4.03 - Rotor Replacement
Changing the rotor is a simple operation. The complete rotor consists of
a centre rotor made of heavy piping with blade flanges welded to it in a
scrolled pattern, and two side support flanges (a right one and a left
one). The centre rotor is attached to the two side support flanges with
special bolts. To remove the centre rotor, simply remove these bolts
and slip the centre rotor out from the two support flanges.
5 - TROUBLESHOOTING
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE
Machine makes Loose blade bolts.
intermitting
Gearbox gears or chain
clicking noise.
damaged.
Oil leak from Oil seal damaged.
gearbox.
Gearbox overfilled.
Gearbox
Oil level low.
overheating.
Worn bearings.
PTO turning but Slip clutch slipping.
not blades.
Gearbox noise is Oil level low.
noticeable and
constant.
Worn Gears.
SOLUTION
Tighten blade bolts.
Replace damaged gears or
chain.
Replace oil seal.
Remove excess oil.
Add oil in gearbox.
Replace bearings.
Adjust slip clutch or replace
discs.
This can be normal on a new
machine until it has been run in.
Add oil.
Replace worn gears.
11