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Building Instructions - FILIUS
we have developed the FlllUS' as a modelthat would be both easy and
quickio ouilo, ano that would have to show forgiving tlying,chaEcterislics'
nrrrino the oeriod since it was first put into productlon tne FrLruJ
rrdü
Jä"ä"" ii. J"'tn irt"usend times and again
lts well-thought method of
ä"!ätrjv, iw".v ttish prelabrication as-well as itsthrough
maneuvrabili-
thäu" ri'äd" tn6'rrLIüs' one olthe mostappreciated
beginner-models
ääi" l"
t" reason why we thought it was worthwhlle to
go back to
*oi[ on tne
'FlLlUS'-kit so as lo pass onto the modeler some of the
ex-peÄnce "nfricf, has been gained with model in the field
May we ask
i.äJ tt e instructions that Iollow, lhoroughly and entirely'
particularly
.ollf ih"
'fff-fuS' is your first model we wish you a lot of pleasure
ä"ä'."äi"tiä""s
,ie building ot vour'FlLIUS" and later on' during
ihe many {light sessions you will be able to enjoy'
i"
-orJ"lio
ouiro torr'FlLjUS', vou will need the lollowing tools:
Ä i""i-t"t
*iin " linely toothed blade, a balsa-knite' a sanding block
"itn ä f"" sheets of sanding paper
(both tine and medium grain)'-a
iä"d-Oriff *itft I and s mm-dritts, a small hand-vise'
a few cloth-pins
ä"J "ot" Scotch-tape to hold together
parts to be glued as well as
ä f"*'."0"1"s
'T'-type pins (whi;h will not be necessary il you are
i"lng .ot"
cyäno-acrylate type cement, such as
'zAcKl" 'zAP" 'Hot-
Stutf, etc.).
fÄi you|. gru"ing jobs, we advise you to get the following
adh11v:::
Balsa to Balsa:
'ZACKI' trom MULTIPLEX, 'ZAP" or 'HOT STUFF' (in
the tlc
and Canada): these
'ultra-tast' cements
will m2 I both cloth-pins and vises obsolete' s'nce lt
cures in 5 to lO seconds
- white glue' such as UHU-
HART, or'TITEBOND' or
'wHILHOLD''
Balsa to Spruce:'2Äökt', o,'z^p', "''Hot Stuff ' UHU-HART'
TITEBoN D'
WHILHOLD.
Plastic to Wood: contact-cemenls, such as Pattex'
Greenit' Franklin's
etc.
Metal to Wood: Two-part epoxy-cements, such as HOBBYPOXY'S
For
mula 1 and 2, UHU-PLUS, or DEVCON 5 Min'
The Fu8elage
Assembling of the various building{roups must be carried
out on a
o".r""ti" rüt uno straight building board about 44" x 8"
(110 x 20 cm)
Fr Jo'rv'" in" or"*ingion this board and protect the Plans
with a clear
olastic sheet, which will prevent the various parls belng
glueo rogelner
io "ti"f to tn" o|."tiings (a very simple source for this
protective plastic
"t'""iis tt'" backing-iheet from any plaslic iron-on covering
material)'
Before you start the actual building ol the model'
you will have to
seoaratä att tne parts you need: immediately trom the dietut
sheets -
it-,iecessarv, trelp ttre various parts dropJrom the sheet by using a very
;ha;; mod;iins knife. Match the various parts to each other
without
.nu i"."nt, it i""e.sary rework some of the pieceswith an approphate
to;l (such as the sanding block, a small file, a knife' etc )'
Ä certain quantity ot spärs and hardwood dowels are to be
found in
it " tit, tfr"v are uncut and will theretore have to be cut to the
proper
fenqtn whiilr is dictated by the plans ln order to control all lhe
vanous
o.i". J", to tn" "t'"ckti;t which you will find at the end of the building
lanuat. parts are numbered in reference to the various building€roups'
i.". niljrg,
ru."r"s", nr 20 to 25 fin and rudder assembly' nr 26 to 30:
"iäoiiit"r, "i är to-4ö: cockpit' wing-fixing and tow-hook'
nr 41 to 58:
wino. and nr 59 to A4: radio-control equipment installation
äuifäing tt'e tusefage and the tail-unit will be tackled in the lollowing
way:
Erino tooether parts 1 and 2 at the splicing point: check for
prope'
"iion'me,ä ot tnis fuselaöe bottom by refering to the plan-view of the
Painting:
vou will find all the necessary products for a super-
iiiln; in ttt" extensive
'HoBBYPoxY-program
of
enamels and surfacing Products.
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fuselage. Glue both parts together, then pin them down onto the olan
to let them dry completely.
Ouite in the same way, but using this time the side-view on the plan
for alignment purposes, join together the fuselage-sides 4 and S, glue
them together and pin them down on the plan to let them drv.
Lift off the bottom and the sides of the tusetage trom the ;lan, and il
necessary, trim their contour at the glue seams. However, in trimming
the parts, do not alter thejr shape.
Now glue the tuselage reinforcement doublers 6 to the fuselage;ides
using contact cement.
Caretull
You must obtain one left fuselage side and one right fuselage side! Once
the fuselage is assembted, theruselage reintorcement dotblers shoutd
be on the inllde ol the tusetage. pay attention and check that you have
one left and right side betore glueing everything togetherl
Using a flet-tip pen, draw the contour of the tuselage reinforcement
doubler on the tuselage side itselt. Coat the surfaces with gtue and tet
the glue evaporate, tollowing in this the glue manufactüre/s instructions.
Place the doubler h the corect posjtion and press it lighfly into place.
The fuselage-side and its doubler are now aligned along the top edge.
Along the bottom edge, there is still an overlap of 6 mm (t %"): this;ill
allow th€ tuselage side to coverthe fuselage bottom during the assembly
srage.
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Using the same method, position doubler 3 on the fuselage bottom.
Part 3 willovenunpart 1 by about 1O mm (1q6") at the front e;d. Correct
the contour ot these two parts with light touches of the sanding block.
Using the 3 x 5 mm spars isupptied, cut the length the small pieces that
are going to make the fuselage tormers at the EE and FF sections.
These small pieces may be somewhat longer than indicated on the
plan. Each time, pin the top and the bottom braces onto the olan. Cut
both sides braces to the exäct length shown on the ptan an; gtue all
four parts together You will obtain two reinforcing frames which will
act as fuselage lorme|s and which wi give stifiness and alignment to the
luselage where needed.
Nor,\, pin down again the fuselage bottom to the plan. Using yourfelt-tip
peh, mark on the plan the nose-bloc position as well aa that of .the
various fuselage formers. you can ofcourse use as referencesthe marks
which you will find on the drawing itselt.