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PHOTO 123: The lining is done working from the false keel towards the middle of the hull. The frames in the area closest to the base are
marked, and this is the start point for fitting the first lining strip. Use fast-setting glue.
PHOTO 124: The lining work is finished at the centre of each side of the hull, using strips that have been sharpened at one end. The lining work
must be done on both sides of the hull. To ensure a better finish you can caulk the joint using furniture repair filler, and then gently sand down
the surface. If you wish you can also paint the outside of the hull cream, or leave the natural wood finish and varnish it.
Stain or paint the rubbing fenders dark brown, before fitting them in position, 5 mm above the first strip of lining.
PHOTO 125: Now, using a saw, cut the frames away, flush with the lining, to free the hull of the barge from the assembly base.
PHOTO 126. Paint the interior of the barge white. Cut the bottom planking to size and glue it into place using fast-setting glue. The frames have
been cut 4 mm from the top and stained lengths of the strip must also be cut and fitted to simulate more frames.
PHOTO 127: Cut the thwarts to size and glue them into place as shown in the photo. If any retouching is necessary do it and then fit the stern
and bow thwarts.
PHOTO 128: Glue the corresponding stem at the bow. The keel and the stern post are made up from a strip.
PHOTO 129: Glue the reinforcement to the stern transom and paint it dark brown. The gallant rail must cover the complete profile of the hull
lining. Glue the thwart reinforcements to the thwarts. Cut the thole bases and make a small bevel on them. Make the holes required to fit the
tholes, using the pins (A). Now varnish the complete assembly, except for the parts that have been painted.
PHOTOS 130 & 131: Glue the side fairleaders onto the stern thwart. Attach the sheave using a brass shaft. Glue the rudder and the
corresponding tiller into place. Now place the barge on the supports and tie it down using the lashings, as shown.
PHOTO 132: Retouch the stem or the interior of the figurehead if required so that it is firmly based housed, as shown in the photo.
PHOTO 133: this is a close up view of how the rudder chains are attached.
In this pack we attach an extensive series of photos, not numbered, which show a series of details of the assembly process and which will be of
use to you as a guideline for the fitting of the different parts of the hull, masts and spars.
MASTS AND SPARS
In order to make up the masts the first step is to cut the rods to size, as indicated in the parts list, or by taking measurements directly from plans
3, 4, 5 and 6, which are printed in 1/1 scale. All of the masts and yards have to have a certain conical shape, which they must be given by
progressively sanding them down. In order to achieve this conical shape for the masts, sand down the rod (using a sander), increasing the
amount of sanding down as you get closer to the end at which you want to decrease the diameter. Turn the rod so that you sand it down evenly
on all sides, until you have achieved the diameter indicated in the plan. To get the conical shape of the yards carry out the above operations but
in this case evenly reducing the diameter at both ends of the yard.
In order to make up the mast for this model correctly you must take the following into account:
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Plans.
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The close up photos of the masts
The measurements and material descriptions of the parts list
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The parts identification (PI) sheets
The masts are to be varnished, while some of the parts that make them up, or details, will have to be painted. Examine the close-up
photos of the masts.
Once the mast has been assembled and varnished fix the tackle (slings, blocks, eyebolts, clump blocks, etc.) into place.
When the masts have been completed attach them to the ship by inserting them into the holes that have been left for them, until they
come up against the mast step in the false keel.
SAILS AND RIGGING
In order to make up the running gear for this ship follow the alphabetic order of the small printed plans, identified as A, B, C..., which
figure in plans 8 and 9, indicating the order for fitting the (ropes, clump blocks, blocks, sails, etc.) highlighted in red. In combination with
the parts list this will serve as a guide with regard to the type of material to be used at all times.
A method for simulating the aging of the sails you can boil them in tea and leave them to dry all wrinkled up. Fit them in place without
ironing so that they will have some consistency.
We have prepared this model for the sole purpose of trying to ensure that you will have a good time putting together this beautiful
scale reproduction of a historic ship.
If you have had fun then we have achieved our aim.
Thank you.
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