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PHOTOS 60 & 61: The stem (69) must be glued into the 5 mm space set aside to this end at the bow and adjusted to the same curve as the
false keel, and the stern post (70) aft, with the length adjusted so that it is at the same level as the false keel, if necessary. Examine the plans
and photos.
PHOTO 62: Now glue, in continuation of the stem, two sections of the keel (71 & 72), and then glue onto the keel, from the stem, a strip (67).
PHOTO 63: Using the strip (73) frame the four sides of each gun port opening. Eliminate any excess that projects out by sanding it down until it
is flush with the surface of the hull itself.
PHOTO 64: Also frame the gun ports of the first battery, using the strips (74). Cut the top rubbing strake so that it enters embedded in the strips
(75) that make up the wash board. Glue a piece of the strip (76) to the top as a reinforcement. Repeat the above steps on both sides of the hull.
PHOTO 65: Cut the gallant rails (77, 78 & 80) to size and, before gluing them to the bulwarks, make slots in the side using a triangular file. The
curved finishes (79) are made up using lengths of strip cut to the same width as the gallant rails. Use fast-setting glue. Now reopen the ports in
the bulwarks for the guns.
PHOTOS 66 & 67: Also cut to size the gallant rails (81, 82 & 87) and glue them into place. Fit the rubbing strakes (83, 84 & 85). You can also
make a slot in the gallant rails. Finish the curves of the bulwarks using more strips (79). The decoration (86) is made up using brass wire, giving
it the form of a spiral. Paint the top part of the bulwarks blue.
PHOTO 68: Fit the vertical prolongation of the stem (69) to the stem and then, behind it, glue the knighthead (88). Check how far the rubbing
strake (83), which you attached in the previous step, reaches.
PHOTO 69: On the back of the bulwark make a cut that will expose the cabin bulkhead. This cut must be 10 mm towards the interior and open
until it reaches the lower deck.
PHOTO 70: Glue the heads (89) under the gun ports of the front frame. Along the full width of the frame and over the heads, glue the
decoration (90) having previously given shape to it. Using brass wire finish the top and bottom of the decoration (90).
Glue two doors to the front, making them up from the strips (92), and then attach the hinges (93), having previously cut them in half. For door
handles use eyebolts (B) and two of the small rings (I). Make a 3 mm diameter hole in the heads. Use fast-setting glue.
PHOTO 71: Glue the parts (94, 95 & 96) to the slots in the stem, making sure they are well centred so that the headboard (97) sits correctly
against them. Now glue the bracer adding a Samson post (98) to the top, which must be made up from one of the 5 x 5 mm strips. You can
stain these parts using a walnut coloured or diluted bitumen stain. Varnish the whole hull and the decks using a colourless, satin finish pore-filler
varnish. From this point on you must individually varnish or paint all of the new parts that you attach.
PHOTO 72: Using a 5 x 5 mm strip make up the rest of the Samson posts (98) which are located along the gallant rails at the bow and glue
them in place with fast-setting glue. Give the davits (99) an angle so that you can glue them onto the sides of the bulwarks and under these the
brackets (100) and paint the exterior edges of the bulwark gallant rails gold.
PHOTO 73: Locate the bottom bracer (101) between the bracket of the davit and the stem, adjusting it if necessary, and then glue it into place
using fast-setting glue. Use stain to give the recently fitted parts colour.
PHOTO 74: Glue the stem brackets (102 & 103) onto the hull and the stem. Soak these parts first so that they better adapt to the shape. Using
strips (104) line the stem brackets and also the top of these against the hull.
PHOTO 75: Using brass wire (105) make up the decorative stem rubbing strake brackets. Now make the 2 mm holes in the strips once in place
at the top of the stem brackets, for the entry of the anchor ropes. Now paint all of these parts matt black and gold.
PHOTO 76: Make up two gratings, ensuring that the parts are well inserted, and then use fast-setting glue to secure them. From these
complete assemblies cut out portions to make the different deck gratings. Use two complete sections of grating, adapting them to make up the
bowsprit grating (106).
PHOTO 77: Cut out the grating sections (109) and join them using the strips (107 & 108). Centre these assemblies on the side beams of the
deck and finally fit the finishes (110).
Also make up the grating sections (113) and frame them using the strips (111 & 112). The strips of the exterior perimeter can be made up with
small blind holes, in which the ammunition (114) can be deposited. Use fast-setting glue.
PHOTO 78: Cut the necessary lengths of the strip (115) to make up the hatch cover. Frame using the strips (116 &117) and then make the
holes for the ammunition (114).
PHOTO 79: Put together the other grating assemblies and then cut gratings (119 & 121) from them. Fit the frames (118, 120 & 122) and then
make the holes for and fit into place the ammunition (114).
PHOTO 80: Assemble the stairs, as above, using the uprights (123 & 124). You must cut the steps to size from the parts (125) as indicated.
Once assembled then cut them cut to the required height for each hatch. Use fast-setting glue.
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