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PHOTOS 102 & 103: Fit an eyebolt on each side of the gun port frames set in the bulwarks in order to tie off the lashings (192) that are
attached to the guns with wheels. Glue one of the capstans into place in front of the chimneys. Fit the necessary eyebolts (B) and rings (I) into
place on the decks.
PHOTO 104: Glue together two of the parts (193) and make up two bails. Paint them brown or stain them using a mahogany coloured stain.
Cut sections of the hinge (194) and glue them, distributed as shown in the photo. Between them glue the support (195) and the holder (196).
PHOTO 105: Shape the fenders (197) from a 3 x 3 mm strip of lime wood, and then paint them yellow. Round off the exterior edges. On the
midships deck, corresponding to the 2
PHOTO 106: Now attach the other capstan (190) to the midships deck 190. Six whelps (198) were incorporated to the capstan on the top deck.
Place on the deck the necessary rings and eyebolts. Make up the railings using the parts (199, 200 & 201).
PHOTOS 107 – 109: Take the channels (202) and glue a strip (204) onto the front edge. Before gluing them to the hull, make the necessary
holes through which you must subsequently pass the clump block slings. Now glue them onto both sides of the hull and make sure that they
adopt the correct angle, using the brackets (203). Now carry out the same action with the main and mizzen channels (205 & 207).
PHOTO 110: Attach the clump blocks (G & H) using lengths of brass wire (211) and pass them through the holes in the channels. They will be
held from below by a length of wire (209) and pinned directly to the hull using pins and the links (210). Using the strips (212 & 213) attach the
rungs of the side ladders on both sides of the hull.
PHOTO 111: Insert and glue the stocks (215) to the anchors (214) and then fit the rings (K). The stocks are made from lengths of 5 x 5 mm
strip, offsetting the sides and making a hole in the centre in which to insert the anchor. It is then decorated using lengths of brass strip for the
hoops (216) and pins inserted without their heads.
PHOTO 112: Attach the rope (243) to the ring attached to the end of the anchor and reinforce it using one of the lashings. The end of the rope is
then inserted into the holes made in step 75. The ring is tied off to the tie block (E) and the anchor rigging (244) is run to it from the davit. They
are then tied off to the hull using the lashings (245).
Paint the buoys (217) black and tie them off using the thread (218). These parts must be the last to be fitted, as you will need to have all of the
masts in place first.
PHOTO 113: Paint the visible part of the interior of the stern transom blue, along with the edges of the finishes and the bases, as shown in the
photo.
Glue the quarter galleries bases (221), painted black and gold, onto the bottom of the transom, along with the bases (157). Shape the windows
(222) and glue them into place using fast-setting glue and paint them cream. On the top base fit all of the columns (223) needed to close off the
assembly, these will be supported on the top and against the finishes (225). Once fitted into place paint them gold. Above the columns fit the
windows (224), finishing off the parts of the bases that project out and gluing on a length of brass wire (228).
PHOTO 114: On the top glue the cornices (226) and paint them black and gold. Fit the columns (227) vertically, cut them to size, and then paint
them brown. Profiling the bases of the quarter galleries fit a section of chain (229) that ends at the rudder blade. Check out the following steps.
PHOTO 115: Now make up the lantern assemblies: the big one using the parts (230, 231, 234 & 235) and the two small ones using the parts
(230, 231, 232 & 233). The inside of the lanterns, red in colour, must be cut out of the boxes of this colour in the photo. Use the windows (234 &
232) as a template for cutting out the parts required, and then fit them inside these, before gluing on the tops (235 & 233).
BARGE
PHOTO 116: Glue the lanterns to the stern transom, after first making the necessary holes and imparting a curved shape to the brackets (230).
Finish by attaching the chain (229) to the bottom of the transom and the rudder tiller using the eyebolts (B). Place all of the necessary columns
(219) over the opening of the transom and then finish them off using sections of the strip (220). Paint the columns gold.
PHOTOS 117 & 118: Make up the two sets of supports for the barge using the parts (236 – 240) as shown in the photo. In order to better fix
these parts onto the deck two Samson posts (238) are introduced at the bottom of the columns. Fit the supports in the in the area shown on the
ship's midships deck.
PHOTO 119: Now start to make up the barge. Refine all of the parts that make up the skeleton of the barge and assemble them, but do not glue
them yet, onto the false keel, following their numeric order.
PHOTO 120: Now slot the false keel and the frames into the base and glue the false keel and all of the frames to the base using a fast-setting
glue so that they will be solidly fixed in place. Also add the bow reinforcements.
PHOTO 121: Glue all of the frames in the contact area with the false keel and attach the transom. Use fast-setting glue. Paint the whole
assembly dark brown or stain it using a bitumen-based wood stain, as you prefer.
PHOTO 122: Once you have ensured that these parts are well glued together sand down, working from bow to stern, to bevel the frames and
obtain a good base for lining the hull. Also sand down the frames working from the stern to the bow.
nd
battery, there are eight guns (189), which you assembled without wheels in step 100.
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