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PHOTO 99: Make up the top rubbing strakes (143) following the same procedure as in the previous step to make sure
that they adapt to the curve, and paint them yellow. Align the first strip immediately above the black rubbing strakes and
then the other top rubbing strake 19 mm above the first. On the starboard side the lower of these two rubbing strakes will
be attached in two portions over the black main rubbing strakes.
PHOTOS 100 & 101: Paint the interior part where the stern transom is going to be fitted black, as shown. Now glue on
the transom (144) using fast-drying glue. Make the necessary adjustments to make sure it fits correctly into position.
Before attaching the lining strakes (137), with the help of a round file, bevel the bottom edge of the transom, to ensure
that the strips are seated correctly. Trim off any excess strip flush with the transom. Now glue on the transom side
finishes (145) to cover the edges of the bulwarks lining.
PHOTOS 102 & 103: Line the area of the stern using some pieces of the lining strips (139). Even up the edge using a
flat file and then apply filling putty to the offsets of the transom and when this has dried sand down the area using fine-
grain sandpaper. Paint the stern transom using the same blue colour as you used on the bulwarks.
PHOTO 104: Line the interior side of the transom with the strips (146). Start the lining in the centre and work out to the
ends. Using a flat file even up the top profiles of the transom and the bulwarks.
PHOTOS 105 & 106: Make up the interior (147 & 148) and exterior (149 & 150) sapele wood coloured hatch frames.
Now make up the hatch covers (151). Make 12 0.75 mm diameter holes in the cover and insert the eyebolts (B) and the
rings (M), as shown in photo 106. Glue the covers supported on the interior hatch frames.
PHOTO 107: Now make up the waterways (152) stained the colour of sapele wood. Adjust the waterways flush with the
interior side of the stern transom and the stern bulwarks. Now make up the stanchions (153) and stain them the colour of
sapele wood. Fit the first stanchion onto the waterway at a distance of around 20 mm from the end of the bulwark. Now
attach the rest at the intervals marked out on the photo.
PHOTO 108: Glue the stern gallant rail (154) into place, stained the colour of sapele wood, centred on the stern transom.
Make up the stern sapele coloured side gallant rails (55) and fix them in place on the bulwarks.
PHOTO 109: Stain the bow gallant rails (156) the colour of sapele wood and glue them in place making sure that they
are aligned with the longitudinal axis of the ship and cover the top part of the bow bulwark.
PHOTO 110: Make up the midships side gallant rails (157) and stain them the colour of sapele wood. Adjust and glue
them into place between bow and stern. Paint the profile of the midships and bow gallant rails yellow, taking care not to
smudge the blue colour of the hull.
PHOTO 111: Continuing the line of the midships gallant rail attach a length of top rubbing strake (158) running parallel to
the one below it, as shown in the photo. Paint this rubbing strake yellow and cut off the excess flush with stern transom.
Repeat the same process on the other side of the hull. Now make up the interior gun port frames (159) on the stern
bulwarks.
PHOTO 112: Using a file, file down the front edge of the rubbing strakes so that the stem (160) fits between them and
the bow gallant rails. Then glue it into place using fast-drying glue.
PHOTO 113: Now, in continuation of the stem, glue the parts of the keel (161 & 162) completely aligned with the centre
of the hull. Before fitting the stern post (163) make the necessary adjustments to ensure that it ends up at the same level
as the keel. Adjust the last section of the keel if necessary and apply pore-filling lacquer to the stem, the keel and the
stern post.
PHOTO 114: Apply pore-filling lacquer to the rudder blade (164). Adjust the lengths of the hinges (165). Make sure that
the distance between the ends of the hinges and the width of the blade is constant. Insert the pins (A), previously
adjusted to the thickness of the blade. Now make up the hinge pins (166) and insert them into the hinges.
PHOTOS 115 & 116: Make a 5 mm diameter hole that runs from the stern transom to the hole in the deck. Use a circular
file to enlarge the hole until the rudder blade can be easily inserted. Before attaching the rudder blade to the stern post
check out the photo for the following step. Join the rudder blade to the hull using the hinges (165) and the pins (A) in
such a way that the bottom of the blade is flush with the keel of the boat, as shown in photo 115. Also check photo 116
to see how the top end of the rudder blade must end up in the centre of the hatch.
PHOTO 117: Paint the apron plate base (167) blue and, when the paint has dried, glue it into place centred on the stern
transom, 5 mm below the gallant rail, as shown in the photo.
PHOTO 118: Glue the adornment (168) and the nameplate (169) aligned with the bottom of the stern transom and the
transom windows (170, 171 & 172).
PHOTO 119: Adjust the length of the rubbing strakes on the side of the hull. Stain and glue the side finishes (173) onto
both sides of the hull, as shown.
PHOTOS 120 & 121: Make up the transom finishing parts (174, 175 & 176) and paint them yellow. Also paint the parts
(177) yellow and attach them to the stern transom in the positions shown in the photos. Adjust and glue the parts (178),
one on each side of the transom, in the positions shown in photo 121, having first painted them yellow. Glue on the
adornments (179).
PHOTO 122: Make up the ladder using the ladder uprights (80 & 81) and the rungs (180) cut to size. Fit the ladder into
the hatch as shown in the photo.
PHOTO 123: Sand down the bucket (181) and the barrels (182, 183 & 184) using very-fine grain sandpaper and then
varnish them using a colourless pore-filling lacquer. With a black marker pen mark the rings on all of these pieces. Apply
a bitumen based wood stain, diluted with a little turpentine to the barrels and the bucket, so that they take on an aged
look.
PHOTOS 124 & 125: Cut to size eight blocks (185) and then cut out eight pieces of cloth (186) and wrap the blocks in
the cloth, as shown. Now use the bindings (187) to bind the bails. Apply a spot of glue to the knot so that it will not slip
and cut off any excess thread.
PHOTO 126: Glue the bucket, the medium barrels and one of the small barrels in the positions shown in the photo. Now
attach to the lower deck the eight bales, two large barrels and a small barrel, arranged more or less as shown in the
photo.
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