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ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
BOUNTY
HULL
PHOTO 1: Assemble the skeleton of the hull following the numerical order of the parts. Once you have sanded the parts
down stain them using a water-based tint with a dark oak shade, or similar, brushing it on in the same direction as the
run of the wood grain. Attach the reinforcements (2) to the false keel (1), in such a way that the slots are perfectly
aligned. Before gluing the frames (3-17), into place, make sure they fit correctly into place "flush" with the corresponding
slots in the false keel (1). It is important to ensure that the frames are completely perpendicular to the false keel. For this
operation use white (carpenter's) glue. Insert and glue two reinforcements (18) between the frames in such a way that
they are flush with the top of the interior curve of each frame.
PHOTOS 2-5: Using the same tint as above stain the parts shown in the photo. The reinforcements (19, 20, 21 & 22) and
glue them into place using white glue. Make sure that these parts are fitted completely horizontally and that they are
inserted correctly into place. Glue the reinforcements (23 & 24) onto the last frame and then glue the reinforcements (25,
26, 27 & 28) onto both sides of the false keel. Also glue the reinforcements (29) onto both sides of the false keel.
PHOTOS 6-9: Cut the strips (30) to 65 mm lengths. To simulate deck planking use a pencil to enhance the four edges of
each strip. Place the strips (30) aligned on adhesive tape. Apply a fine coat of contact adhesive, (cobbler's glue), on both
the strips and the area of the deck (31) that you are going to line, and which you should previously have stained in the
same dark oak shade. Adjust the first line of strips along the edge of the deck and then fit the second line in place in such
a way that the ends are aligned with the middle of the first line of strips and in this way line the full width of the deck. You
can also use white (carpenter's) glue for this operation. Once you have fitted the full strips (30) trim off the excess
lengths that extend out beyond the deck (31) and fit them into the spaces that have not yet been lined. Now place the
deck upside down and trim off the excess lengths of strip. The deck should now look like it does in photo 9. Simulate the
nailing of the wood using a pencil to mark the ends of each plank, as shown.
PHOTOS 10 & 11: Stain the deck (32) the same colour as above. Start by fitting a line of planking strips (30) in such a
way that you continue to line the other half of the deck. Using a sanding block and fine-grain sandpaper sand down the
whole of the lined surface, making sure you sand in the direction of the wood grain, until you obtain a homogeneous
finish. Gently sand down the perimeter of the deck in order to even up the edges of the strips. Now apply a coat of
colourless pore-filling lacquer.
PHOTOS 12-15: Stain the decks (33 & 34), applying the same shade, and then line them with the planking strips (35) as
shown in the photos. Use a pencil to mark the nailing, as before, and then apply a coat of colourless pore-filling lacquer.
PHOTOS 16 & 17: Fit the bulkheads (36, 37 & 38) onto the deck (31). Do not glue them to the deck, only to each other,
with the deck serving as a template for this assembly. Now line the bulkheads using the strips (39), starting in the part
shown in photo 17. Using a cutter trim off any excess from the strips.
PHOTO 18: Sand down and stain one of the 2 x 3 mm lime wood strips, using a water-based sapele wood colour tint.
Now cut to size and make up the frames (40). Fit the sills (41) and eliminate the parts of the strips that are blocking off
the slots at the top of the bulkheads.
PHOTO 19: Line the three doors (42) using the strips (43), on one side only. Cut six lengths of sapele to make up the
panels (44). Glue two panels onto each door, as shown in the insert photo. Now glue the doors into the openings in the
bulkhead.
PHOTOS 20-22: Align the bulkheads (45, 46 & 47) on the deck (33) so that you can glue them to each other, but not to
the deck. Line the bulkheads using the strips (39) and then make up the doorframes (40), the sills (41) and the doors
(42).
PHOTOS 23 & 24: Using the planking strips (48) line the area between the frames (6 & 12). Start at the middle of the
false keel and work out towards both sides until you reach the lips of the frames. Make the offsets for the false keel lips
and in the space that remains between these two lips it must be possible to fit a 10 mm rod. Sand down the surface of
the planking strips.
PHOTO 25: Make sure that the two halves of the lower bow deck fit correctly over the frames, as shown. Glue the decks
in such a way that they are well aligned with each other. Sand down and stain a 2 x 3 mm strip of lime wood, using a
water-based tint the colour of sapele wood. Adjust and glue on the finishes (49).
PHOTOS 26 & 27: Now attach the bulkheads to the deck. Using the strips (50) line the frame (4) bulkhead. Glue on the
sill (51) adjusted to the top of the frame. Make up and glue the column (52) at the distance indicated in photo 27. Glue
the ring (53) centred over the hole in the deck. Apply a coat of colourless pore-filling lacquer to this whole assembly.
PHOTOS 28-30: Now glue the decks (33 & 34) into place over the frames and fix the stern cabin bulkheads into the slots
on the deck. Using the strips (50) line the frame (15) bulkhead. Glue the top sill (51) into place along with the columns
(52) and the ring (54), centred over the hole in the deck. Apply a coat of colourless pore-filling lacquer to the whole
assembly.
PHOTO 31: Using the strips (48) line the area between the bow and stern cabin bulkheads. Glue the last strip adjusted
below the lips of the frames (8, 9, 10 & 11). Sand down and apply a coat of satin-finish colourless pore-filling lacquer to
the whole surface.
PHOTO 32: Now make up the parts (55) so that they can be fitted in under the lower bow deck and glue them into place
as shown in the photo.
PHOTOS 33-35: Attach parts (56, 57, 58, 59 & 60) together as shown in photo 33. Bevel the top edge of the part (60) to
allow for it to support the part (61). Use the strips (62) to line both the inside and outside of the bilge. Sand down the
whole outline using fine-grain sandpaper. Using the strips (63) line the part (61) and then glue it into place. Now make up
the parts (64) and glue them into place as shown in photo 35.
PHOTO 36: Before fitting the bilge into place eliminate 5 mm of the lining where it comes into contact with stern cabin
bulkhead. Place the bilge in its definitive position and check to see how the beam, previously made up from a 4 x 4 mm
strip of lime wood, fits into place, making sure that it fits correctly with the bilge and the lips of the frame. When you have
done this remove the beam and glue the bilge into place using fast-drying glue.
PHOTO 37: Now make up the beams (65) and stain them a dark oak colour. These beams must fit into the slots left at
the top of the bulkheads and rest on the lips of the frames (5-14).
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