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PHOTO 69: Before lining the interior part of the bow bulwarks the lining strips (135) must be soaked in hot water for
around 20 minutes. Use fast-drying glue. Trim away any excess strip so that it is flush with the top profile of the bulwark.
PHOTOS 70 & 71: Fix the stern bulwarks (136) into place in such a way that the slots are correctly adjusted to the lips of
the deck. Line the inside of the stern bulwarks using the strips (135). Trim the strips so that they end up flush with the
profile of the bulwark.
PHOTOS 72 & 73: Soak the strips (137) in water for at least one hour so that the wood recovers its flexibility. Start to line
the hull on the port side. You are going to line this side completely. The starboard side will be left partially open so that
you can view the interior. At the bow the strakes must end up flush with the frame (3) and at the stern flush with the stern
transom. Use white glue and the pins (A) to attach the strips to the frames. Continue to line the port side of the hull
working your way up to the bulwarks. To line the area close to the bulwarks at bow and stern you will have to use lining
strakes cut into wedge shapes until you have covered the whole of the lower perimeter of the bulwarks.
PHOTO 74: Now start to line the hull on the starboard side. In the photo it shows how the strips at the bow and stern of
the ship must be staggered. On this side fix the strips in such a way that they maintain a symmetry with the strips on the
port side. At the bow the strips must end up flush with the frame (3) and at the stern with the stern transom.
PHOTO 75: Now the lining work must be continued from the false keel working up towards the central part of the hull. Fit
the same number of strips (137) onto both sides of the hull, as shown in the photo. You can fill in the gaps that are left in
the hull later on, using wedge shaped pieces of the strakes (i.e. pieces that have been sharpened at only one end).
PHOTO 76: Continue to insert the strips until you have covered the central part of the hull, but only on the port side. The
gaps that are left uncovered in this central area of the hull will be covered later using diamond shaped pieces of strake
(sharpened at both ends).
PHOTOS 77 & 78: Complete the lining of the hull on the starboard side, both in the bow and stern areas, as shown in the
photos. The gaps that are left can be filled in later using wedge shaped pieces of strake.
PHOTOS 79 & 80: Make up the wedge and diamond shaped pieces of strake to fill in the gaps that were left when lining
the hull. Using a ruler and a cutter cut one of the lining strakes in the form of a wedge, after marking on it the
measurements of the gap to be filled. Make the final adaptation of the wedge using a sanding block. Now do the same
for the other side of the hull, in order to obtain a symmetric finish.
PHOTO 81: Fit six lining strips (137) to the area of the stern transom and trim off any excess at both sides of the hull.
Once you have lined the whole of the hull we recommend that you apply white (carpenter's) glue, diluted with water,
which will filter into the cracks between the strips and glue them together.
PHOTOS 82 & 83: Glue the blocks (138) to the front end of the hull, as shown in photo 82, and then mark out and cut
the two blocks (138) adjusted to the profile of the hull lining. Now fit another two blocks (138) to the bow of the boat, cut
out to the same shape as the first two. File down the blocks, working in the direction shown in photo 83 until they
present a profile flush with the lining of the hull. To make sure that you are filling the profile correctly, every now and then
bend one of the strips around the curve to confirm that it is correct.
PHOTO 84: Sand down the lining of the hull, using a large-grain sander, to even up the surface and sand off the pin
heads. Afterwards repeat this operation using fine-grain sandpaper. You can even out any possible irregular patches by
applying a fine layer of water-based crack-filling putty. When the putty has dried sand the hull down again. The area of
the false keel at the bow and the area of the stern post must have a maximum width of 4 mm.
PHOTO 85: Before starting to fit the second hull lining (139) mark a line that runs parallel to the bulwarks, at the distance
indicated in the photos. This will serve as the line that divides the different colours of the hull lining. For the second lining
it is of utmost importance to ensure that the strips are fitted snugly one against the other in order to avoid gaps appearing
between them or any overlaps. Start by aligning sapele wood coloured strips in the area of the stern transom. Use
contact adhesive and press the strips into place to make sure that they are firmly adhered to the hull. Trim off any excess
from the strips that extends out beyond the sides of the hull.
PHOTOS 86-89: Now align the first strips just below the line that you marked in the last step. At both bow and stern you
will have to use wedge shaped pieces of strip in order to maintain the line. Continue the lining working from the bottom of
the hull up towards the centre, as shown in the photos. Fit the same number of strips to both sides of the hull in order to
achieve a symmetrical finish. The gaps that are left must be filled in later on using wedge shaped pieces of strip.
Continue adding lining strips until you have covered the central part of the hull, as shown.
PHOTOS 90 & 91: Make up the wedge and diamond shaped pieces of strip to fill in the gaps that have not been covered
by the second lining. This must be done in the same way as for the first hull lining.
PHOTO 92: Adjust and glue the crossbeam (140) inside the bow hatch, as shown in the photo. Glue the rings (53, 54 &
89) centred on the holes in the deck.
PHOTOS 93 & 94: If you do not want to apply the strips painted blue you can apply them in their original colour. Paint
the strips (141) blue before gluing them to the hull. The shade of blue must be approximately that of biro ink. The first
lining strip must be glued into place snug against the top of the sapele wood coloured lining, completely straight and
parallel with the floor. Complete the lining until you have covered the bulwarks at the stern and the bow. Cut off any
excess strip that juts out beyond the profile of the deck and the bulwarks.
PHOTO 95: When you have completed the second hull lining lightly sand down the whole surface using very fine-grain
sandpaper. This sanding down must be done taking a great deal of care not to excessively wear down the lining strips.
Always sand in the direction of the grain. Try to sand the hull in colour areas, so that the fine dust that the sanding
produces does not stain the strips of a different colour.
PHOTO 96: Eliminate the dust produced using a dry brush. Repaint the blue lining strips. Stain or paint the edges of the
frames and the decks that are going to be left exposed on the starboard side of the hull a brown colour and then varnish
the whole of the hull by applying fine coats of colourless pore-filling lacquer to the whole surface.
PHOTOS 97 & 98: In order to make up the main rubbing strakes (142) soak a 2 x 5 mm strip of lime wood in hot water
and then bend it to the curve of the bow end of the hull. When it has dried paint it black. Glue the rubbing strakes into
place in such a way that they cover the line where the blue strips meet the sapele coloured strips and run completely
parallel with the top of the bulwarks. Make up three lines of rubbing strake and make sure that they are snug up against
each other. Now attach the main rubbing strakes onto the other side of the hull, as shown in photo 98.
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