Important! The power supply should always be connected to constant current – also in the
summer period - and cannot be placed where there is a risk of water, splashes, moisture or
temperatures above 50 °C. The power supply must be placed so it's freely ventilated. If placed
outside, the power supply and the control box have to be in shade and in a waterproof IP 54
installation box.
Changing the engine cable:
If it becomes necessary to extend the black engine cable, it is recommended to replace the whole
cable so joints are avoided.
Tools: Cross-point screwdriver size 2 and a socket spanner size 7 mm.
4. Removing the cords from terminal:
Press the terminal holders lightly with a pen or
the like, and at the same time lightly pull the
cords from the terminals.
After this, pull the whole cable out of the
cooling pipe and run the new cable into the
cooling pipe. Pull the cable through so there is
a good length of cable to work with.
5. Mounting of cords in terminal:
Strip the cable approx. 5 cm. Then strip each of
the end of the cords approx. 5 mm. The metal
wires are twisted/turned a few times so that the
twisted ends become straighter and firmer.
1. Installation of top ring:
The top is dismantled by removing the two Philip screws
underneath the top ring on either side of the unit.
Philip screw
2. Dismantling of cooling unit:
The black engine cable is pulled loose from the cable
holder underneath, and the whole cooling unit is lightly
removed from the unit. IMPORTANT: Be very careful that
the impeller wings don't fold.
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3. Dismantling of cooling
top:
The four lock nuts which
fasten the cooling top to
the cooling house are
dismounted and removed.
Now, the cooling top with
the cooling pipes can be
lightly removed.
Remember to let the black
cable slide along with it
when you remove the
cooling top.