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PHOTO 99: Make up the rudder blade using the parts shown in the photo. Adjust the size of the hinges using a pair of cutting
pliers. The pins are made up using 1,5 mm diameter brass wire.Make a hole next to the stern post big enough to insert the
helm. Attach the rudder blade to the hull with hinges and pins.
PHOTO 100. Cut a small length of 1.5 mm diameter brass wire and glue it as a kind of axle for the barrels (no. 185). Make a
hole, with a diameter of 1 mm on top if you want to simulate the hole for the fuse. Glue the barrels onto the carriages (no. 184).
Attach the wheel and axles to the bottom. Trim off any excess brass wire from the axles. Wheels are not attached to the guns
(no. 189), as these form part of the second battery, on the interior of the central deck. (See photo 105). Both the guns and their
carriages can be decorated.
PHOTO 101: Place lengths of the strip (no. 191) between the rings of the capstan (no. 190) to simulate the capstan whelps.
There should be six lines of capstan whelps around the capstan. Then file down the sides in the shape of a pyramid. Make six
holes with a diameter of 1.5 mm in the top of the capstan, making them coincide with the whelps. Put together two assemblies.
PHOTOS 102 & 103: Fit an eyebolt on either side of the gun port frames on the bulwarks, in order to tie off the threads (no. 192)
that are used to secure the guns with wheels. Glue one of the capstans in place in front of the chimneys. Attach the necessary
eyebolts and washers to the decks.
PHOTO 104: Glue the parts (no. 193) together to make up two assemblies. Paint them tin old copper colour or tint them
mahogany. Cut sections of the hinge (no. 194) and attach them as shown in the photo. Between them glue the supports (nos.
195 & 196).
PHOTO 105: Give shape to the fenders (no. 197) using a 3 x 3 mm ramin strip. Round off the edges on the outer side. On the
central deck, corresponding to the second battery, the eight guns (no. 189), which were assembled without wheels (see photo
100 above) have been placed.
PHOTO 106: Attach the other capstan (no. 190) to the central deck. Six bars (no. 198) were attached to the capstan on the
upper deck. Attach the necessary eyebolts and rings to the deck. Make up the guardrails for the edges, using the parts (nos.
199, 200 & 201).
PHOTOS 107 to 109: Take the channels (no. 202) and glue a strip (no. 204) to the front profile. Before gluing to the hull make
the necessary holes for passing through the clump-block slings and glue them to both sides of the hull, giving them the correct
angle with the brackets (no. 203). Carry out the same operation with the mainmast and mizzenmast channels (nos. 205 & 207).
PHOTO 110: Tie down the clump blocks using the thread (no. 211) before threading it through the holes in the channels. Tie the
thread off to a length of brass wire (no. 209) and pin it directly to the hull using pins and the links (no. 210). On both sides of the
hull make up the side ladders. Use the strips (nos. 212 & 213).
PHOTO 111. Insert the stocks (no. 215) into the anchors (no. 214) and glue them in place, then fit the rings "K". The stocks are
made up from a section of the 5 x 5 mm strip. The sides must be recessed and an entrance hole made in the centre part of the
anchor. The anchor is then decorated, using a sheet of brass to make up the hoops (no. 216) and headless pins.
PHOTO 112: Attach the cable (no. 243) to the ring at the end of the anchor and reinforce it with a lashing. This cable is inserted
into the holes made in the photo 75 step. A pulley "E" is attached and a cable (no. 244) is passed through between the davit and
the pulley. Attach it to thehull using the lashings (no. 218).
Decorate the floats (no. 217) and tie them off using the thread (no. 218). These parts are the last to be attached, as it will be
necessary to have all of the masts in place.
PHOTO 113: Glue the bases (no. 221) of the quarter galleries onto the bottom of the transom and the bases (no. 157). Shape
the lower windows (no. 222) and glue them in place using quick-drying glue. All of the columns needed to close off the assembly
are fitted to the top base and must be supported on the top part against the finishes (no. 225). On top of the columns fit the
windows (no. 224). To finish off the projections of the bases glue on brass wire (no. 228).
PHOTO 114: Cut the columns (no. 227) to size and fit them in place vertically. Glue the finishes (no. 226) to the top. Paint the
whole assembly using the brown, black, gold and cream. Profile the base of the quarter galleries using a section of the chain
(no. 229), finishing in the rudder blade. Check out the following steps.
PHOTOS 115 & 116: Make up the fanal assemblies, first the big one using the parts (nos. 230, 231, 234 & 235), and the two
small ones using the parts (nos. 230, 231, 232 & 233). Cut out the red decoration from the figures plan, which includes two red
squares. Use as a template the windows (no. 234 & 232) to cut out the necessary sections and fit them inside, before gluing into
place the bonnets (no. 235 & 233). Glue them to the stern transom after first making the necessary hole and curving the
supports (no. 230). Finish off by attaching the chain (no. 229) to the bottom part of the transom and the helm, using eyebolts. Fit
all of the necessary columns (no. 219) over the opening in the transom and finish them off using the strip (no. 220). Paint the
columns gold.
PHOTOS 117 & 118: Make up the two support assemblies for the barge using the parts (nos. 236 – 240). In order to better
attach the parts to the deck incorporate two Samson posts at the bottom of the columns. Locate the supports in the area of the
central deck indicated.
PHOTO 119: Start making up the barge. True up all of the parts that make up its skeleton and assemble them without gluing
them to the false keel, follow the numerical order.
PHOTO 120: Slot the false keel and the central frame into the base. Glue the false keel and all of the frames to the base using
quick-drying glue, so that they are held in place. Also attach the reinforcements at the bow.
PHOTO 121: Glue all of the frames in the contact area with the false keel and add the transom. Use quick-drying glue. Paint the
whole assembly brown if you want to.
PHOTO 122: Once you have made sure that the parts are well glued together sand the assembly down from bow to stern,
bevelling the edges of the frames and ensuring you have a good base on which to fit the hull lining. Also sand down working
from stern to bow.
PHOTO 123: The lining is attached working from the false keel to the middle of the hull. The frames in the area closest to the
base are marked and it is at this point that you attach the first strip of the lining. Use quick-drying glue.
PHOTO 124: The lining work is terminated in the centre of the hull using lengths of strip sharpened at both ends. The lining is
applied to both parts of the hull. In order to improve the finish you can fill the joints with furniture repair putty and gently sand
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