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ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
MONTAÑES
HULL
PHOTOS 1 to 4: Assemble the hull structure by following the numerical order of the drawing. Before gluing the frames into
place make sure that they are correctly fitted into position "abutting" up against the corresponding slots on the false keel. It is
important that the frames are completely perpendicular to the false keel so that the deck will later slot correctly into place. Also
fit the reinforcements (nos. 13 & 14). Use white glue (carpenter's glue) as the adhesive for this operation.
PHOTO 5: Invert the skeleton and support it on a flat surface. Insert the crossbeams that will act as the reinforcement (no. 15)
into the stern frame. Do not glue them into place yet, wait until all of frames and decks, up to step 13, have been installed.
PHOTO 6: Glue the frames (nos. 16 & 17) into place, following the same order shown in the photo. Use white glue.
PHOTO 7. The reinforcements (nos. 18, 19 & 20) are also glued into place using white glue. Make sure they are glued into
place completely horizontally.
PHOTOS 8 & 9: Glue the reinforcements (nos. 21 & 22) to the stern, on both sides of the false keel. At the bow glue the
reinforcements (nos. 23-26), also on both sides of the false keel.
PHOTOS 10 & 11: Line the two halves of the deck (no. 27) using the planking (no. 28), cutting it into sections of unequal length.
Start to do the lining working from the straightest area. Use contact adhesive (cobbler's glue). Carefully read the manufacturer's
usage instructions. Trim off any excess lining using a cutter. To simulate the effect of planking and caulking on the decks,
highlight the lengthways lines between the strips of lining.
PHOTOS 12 & 13: Before gluing the lined decks into place on the structure of the ship, lightly sand them down to eliminate any
possible snags. It is important that the decks are supported directly on the frames, for this process use quick-drying glue. In
continuation glue the crossbeams (no. 15) to the frames, to form a firm and well aligned structure. Varnish the whole deck using
a colourless, satin-finish, pore-filler varnish.
PHOTO 14: Use a 5 x 5 mm strip to make up the beams (no. 29). Cut to the size of each frame and fix in place using white glue.
PHOTO 15: Fit the reinforcements (no. 30) into place on the stern, slotting them into the last frame and, on top of these, fit the
parts (no. 31). Use quick-drying glue.
PHOTOS 16 to 19: Following the same procedure as in photos 10 & 11 above, line the main deck (no. 32) using the planking
(no. 33). The slots that are located all around the perimeter of the deck must be covered over and only the slots at the back, for
the last frames, will be opened up again. Glue the lined decks onto the structure of the ship. It is important to ensure that the
decks are correctly adjusted to the top of the frames. Use a quick-drying glue for this process.
PHOTO 20: Cut the lower beams (nos. 34 & 35) to size and glue them to the bottom of the deck, flush with the opening.
PHOTO 21: Cut off lengths for the three crossbeams, allowing them to project no more than 16 mm beyond the deck. Glue
lengths of the strip (no. 37) across the front of the beams. These must also be held in place from beneath using lengths of the
strip (no. 38). Use quick-drying glue.
PHOTO 22: Before starting to sand down the hull, glue the central reinforcements (no. 36) into place on the last frame and the
deck above. Fit the two reinforcements without slots onto the sides. Use white glue.
PHOTOS 23 to 27: In order to achieve a good contact surface for the bulwarks and gun ports, using a sander or a file, sand or
file down the edge of the frames, working from bow to stern. For the time being this operation is only carried out on the step
that forms a part of each of the frames. Check out the following steps to get an idea of where the bulwarks and gun ports are
going to be fitted. These steps are repeated on both sides of the hull. The filing will also be along the whole length of the hull
and at the stern. The profile of the main deck will also have to be adjusted to ensure that the gun ports and bulwarks (nos. 40,
41, 44 & 45) fit correctly onto it.
PHOTOS 28 to 30: Using the plywood sheet (no. 39) cut off lengths to make up the bases for the guns and pin them to the hull.
Cut them to the size of the space between the frames. For the frames (nos. 4 & 9) these lengths must slot into place. Glue them
into place vertically in relation to the deck. Use quick-drying glue.
PHOTOS 31 to 33: Glue and pin the gun ports (no. 40) to the structure of the hull. They must be glued into place between the
two decks, starting at the stern and working towards the bow. First dampen them with water so that they become more flexible.
Use a quick-drying glue if necessary in the areas where the curve is most pronounced.
PHOTOS 34 to 36: The gun ports (no. 41) must then be fitted in place below the line of the first ones. These gun ports are
slotted into place between the ones above and the step in the frames. File off the excess from the gun ports so that the deck
(no. 42) can be centred and glued in place.
PHOTOS 37 & 38: Using the plywood sheet (no. 43) cut out equal pieces of approximately 20 x 20 mm, from which to make up
the guns. Glue the cut pieces (no. 43) onto the inside part of the gun port (no. 41). These pieces must cover the openings of the
gun ports. Securely fit these pieces using quick-drying glue to avoid them becoming detached later on.
PHOTOS 39 & 40: Glue and pin the bulwark (no. 44) to the structure of the hull. You must start from the stern, gluing the
bulwark to the profile of the upper deck. In continuation pin the bow bulwark (no. 45) as a prolongation of the first (no. 44). The
bulwarks and gun ports are fitted to both sides of the hull.
PHOTO 41: Using the 2 x 5 mm strips (no. 46) line the interior of the two top bulwarks. Use quick-drying glue for this operation.
Trim off any excess so that the bulwarks are profiled and all of the gun ports are left open.
PHOTOS 42 & 43: Onto the bulkheads (no. 47) glue all of the doors, windows and columns as numbered in the photo, first of all
fitting the windows as a base. Then attach the soffits (no. 53) and add a number of eyebolts with rings, which will serve as door
handles. First make a hole, in which to fit these eyebolts. Fit the whole assembly between the stern reinforcements, retouching it
if required.
PHOTOS 44 & 45: Take the bulkheads (nos. 54, 56 & 57) and decorate them with the pieces shown. Make sure that you
correctly decorate the bulkheads (nos. 56 & 57) as they are one for each side. Fit all of the parts that you have made up to the
back side of the deck. First of all centre the bulkhead (no. 54) and then fit the others. In the corners of the front side of the
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