• Before changing the saw chain, clean the groove of
the guide bar, as the saw chain may jump out of
the bar if it dirty. The deposits can also soak up the
chain oil. The consequence would be that the chain
oil does not reach the underside of the guide bar,
or only to a small extent, and lubrication is re-
duced.
Depending on wear, the guide bar (18) can be turned.
1. Set the product down on a level and stable surface.
2. Pull the front hand guard (1) back up to the stop to
release the chain brake, if necessary.
3. Turn the chain tensioning screw (21) anti-clockwise
to loosen the chain tension.
Use an installation spanner (29).
4. Turn the fixing nuts (22a) anti-clockwise, so that the
chain wheel cover (22) is removed.
Use an installation spanner (29).
5. Insert the guide bar (18) on the two guide bolts (34).
The guide pin (34) must be in the elongated hole on
the guide bar (18).
6. Guide the saw chain (17) around the chain wheel
(37) and check the alignment of the saw chain (17).
In the tip of the guide bar (18) there is a guide
wheel into whose teeth the saw chain (17) must be
inserted.
7. Pull slightly on the guide bar (18) to slightly pre-ten-
sion the saw chain (17).
8. Fit the chain cover (22). Make sure that the internal
chain tensioning pin (36) fits into the appropriate
matching hole (36a) in the guide bar (18).
If necessary, adjust the chain tensioning screw (21)
with an installation spanner (29).
9. Screw on the two fixing nuts (22a) by hand. Make
sure that you do not tighten them yet.
10. Use the installation spanner (29) to turn the chain
tensioning screw (21) clockwise until the lower part
of the saw chain (17) slides into the guide bar (18).
The saw chain (17) must be in contact with the un-
derside of the guide bar.
When the chain brake (1) is released, it must be
possible to pull the saw chain (17) over the guide
bar (16) by hand.
11. Tighten the two fixing nuts (22a) with the installa-
tion spanner (29).
12. Check the fit of the saw chain (17) again and ten-
sion the saw chain (17) as described in 11.4.
13. Disassembly takes place in reverse order.
Note:
With a new saw chain, the tensioning force decreases
after some time. Therefore, you must retension the saw
chain after the first 5 cuts, or after 10 minutes of saw-
ing at the latest.
14.2.7
Sharpening and maintaining the
saw chain (17)
WARNING
The teeth of the saw chain are very sharp. In order to
avoid injuries, always wear thick gloves when in use!
Keep the saw chain in a good operating condition;
effective work with the chainsaw is only possible if
the saw chain is sharp, well lubricated and properly
tensioned.
This also reduces the risk of kick-back.
The properly sharpened saw chain (17)
A properly sharpened saw chain (17) goes effortlessly
through the wood and requires very little pressure. Do
not work with a dull or damaged saw chain (17).
It increases physical exertion, magnifies the vibrations
and leads to unsatisfactory results as well as greater
wear and tear.
• Clean the saw chain (17) regularly.
• Check the saw chain (17) for breaks in the links and
damaged rivets.
• Sharpening a saw chain (17) should only be carried
out by experienced users!
• Note the angles and dimensions specified below.
If the saw chain (17) is not properly sharpened or the
depth gauge is too small, there is a higher risk of kick-
back effects and the resulting injuries! The saw
chain (17) cannot be fixed on the guide rail (18). It is
therefore best to remove the saw chain (17) from the
guide rail (18) and then sharpen it.
• Select a sharpening tool that is suitable for the
chain pitch.
The chain pitch (e.g. 3/8") is marked in the depth
gauge of each blade.
Only use files specifically for saw chains!
Other files have the wrong shape and the wrong edge.
Select the diameter of the file according to your chain
pitch. Be sure to also note the following angles when
sharpening the cutting links.
A = file angle
B = angle of the side plate
GB
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