Kavan MIRAI Bauanleitung Seite 4

◊ Glue together all the balsa parts using medium CA or aliphatic resin.
◊ Glue the fin root rib R13 (1.2 mm plywood); do not forget the opening for
the R10 fin fixing plate is supposed to be offset to the left. Use the R11
carbon rods inserted into the R9 tubes as alignment pins for the R13 root
rib. Double check the root rib was straight and square to the fin. Take care
the R11 were not glued in to the fin in this step. (Fig. 2)
◊ Put the tail surfaces aside for now; they will be finished after the tailplane
seat is installed to the tail boom.
Fuselage (Glider Version)
◊ Trial fit the parts of the fuselage– no glue yet! Sand as necessary to obtain
perfect fit (Fig. 3)
◊ Glue the liteply reinforcement plates F3 and F5L to the inner side of the
F17L fuselage side (with the large opening for the F16 hatch); glue the
plates F3 and F5R to the inner side of the F17R fuselage side (without the
hatch opening). (Fig. 4)
◊ Glue the F6 locking plate to the front of the F16 hatch; the locking plate
has to match the position of a notch in the F5L reinforcement plate and
the hatch matched the opening in the F17L fuselage side. The pair of F21
magnets will be epoxied into the F16 hatch and F5L plate only after the
fuselage is covered – otherwise the high temperature of your sealing iron
might de-magnetize the magnets. (Fig. 14)
◊ Epoxy together the tail boom holder consisting of the liteply part F13 and
plywood parts F10 and F14. Attach the F9 wing bolt plate with the M5
aluminium captive nut epoxied in place. Insert the entire assembly of the
tail boom holder between the fuselage sides. Now you can start gluing
the fuselage from the rear to the nose. (Fig. 6)
◊ Glue together the nose part of the fuselage; do not forget bevelling the
edges of the fuselage formers and F18 and F19 liteply braces as required.
(Fig. 9)
◊ Epoxy the F9 wing bolt plate and the tail boom holder assembly in place.
◊ Bevel the F1 nose blocks and glue in place.
◊ Partially cut (ca 1 mm deep) and crack the fuselage sides along the front
edge of the F2 fuselage former and glue them to the F1 blocks (the cut
line is to be soaked with thin CA before the final sanding).
◊ Epoxy the tow hook plate F15 in place. Glue the F20 carbon ballast tube
into the holes in F7 and F8 formers. (Fig. 10)
◊ Glue the upper and lower 2.5 mm balsa sheeting to the fuselage. Slide the
tail boom tube F22 onto the tail boom holder – do not glue yet. Fit and
glue the balsa fairing plates F11 and F12 in place. Carefully match all the
parts so the tail boom had a tight fit but remained still easily detachable.
(Fig. 11) (Fig. 12)
◊ Sand the entire front part of fuselage; take care all the parts including the
F11/F12 fairing created a smooth transition between the fuselage and
the tail boom. (Fig. 14)
◊ Insert the R11 carbon rods into the pre-drilled holes in the tail boom; glue
them in place. The bottom ends or the rods should stick out by 1-2 mm
from the tail boom (the upper side of the tail boom is slightly flattened in
order to accommodate the tailplane seat). Slide the T8 tailplane seat onto
the R11 rods and epoxy it to the tail boom square to the rods. (Fig. 15)
◊ Epoxy the M3 aluminium captive nut R16 to the pre-drilled hole in the
right side of the tail boom.
Fuselage (Electric Version)
◊ The building sequence of the electric version fuselage is basically the
same as with the glider version except for the firewall, nose and servo
tray; also the F20 ballast tube is not to be used.
◊ Instead of liteply F3 reinforcement plates, glue the balsa triangular sticks
E4 along the edges of fuselage sides F17L and F17R. (Fig. 5) (Fig 7)
◊ Epoxy the E3 servo tray behind the F7 fuselage former.
◊ Epoxy the firewall E2 in place. Before you epoxy the firewall in, make
sure the openings and holes in the firewall match your motor – make any
changes as necessary or cut a new firewall to match your motor perfectly.
◊ Once the bottom and upper sheeting is in place cut the fuselage sides
flush with the front edge of the E2 firewall. Temporarily install your mo-
tor and use the spinner as a jig to align the E1 plywood ring; once satis-
fied, epoxy it in place. Sand the nose to the desired shape matching your
spinner. (Fig. 9) (Fig. 10)
Tail Surfaces - continued
◊ Insert the R10 fibreglass fin fixing plate into the opening in the fin. Do
not glue yet! (Fig. 16)
◊ Slide the horizontal stabilizer and fin onto the R11 carbon rods. Screw in
the M3 nylon bolt through the hole in the tail boom, R10 plate into the
F16 nut. Align the R10 late flush with the left side of the fin. Push the fin
to the stabilizer and fuselage and tack glue the R10 plate to the fin with a
couple of CA drops. (Fig. 17) (Fig. 18)
◊ Remove the fin, cyano the R10 plate thoroughly to the fin; fill the recess
on the right side using the R14 1.5 mm balsa filler. Sand the entire fin
smooth. (Fig. 19)
◊ The rudder and elevator horns R16 and T10 as well as the R8 skid will be
glued in later, after the tail surfaces are covered.
Wing
Wing Centre Section
◊ Epoxy together the wing central ribs W3 and W4; insert 3 mm beech
dowels into the holes in order to obtain correct match. Note: Make a left
and right pair of ribs. (Fig. 20)
◊ Epoxy the W10 wing fixing bolt plate between the central ribs. (Fig. 21)
◊ Epoxy together the parts of the W13 main spar shear webbing; the short
0.8 mm ply W11 joiner (with a hole in the centre) to the front side, the
W12 long joiner to the rear side. (Fig. 22) (Fig. 23)
◊ Make bays for P32 wing carbon joiners; epoxy together the W14 front
(shorter) 0.8 mm ply plate, 5 mm ply central plate W15 and rear 0.8 mm
ply (longer, slanted edge) W16 plate. Prevent the epoxy hardening inside
the bays – put the parts together with the P32 carbon joiner inserted,
then immediately remove the joiner (do not forget cleaning the joiner
using a paper tissue and rubbing alcohol before the glue sets). (Fig. 24)
◊ Slide all ribs onto the mains spar shear webbing (no glue yet!). Bind the
joiner bays with the provided Kevlar thread and soak with medium CA.
(Fig. 25) (Fig. 26)
◊ Insert the W27 rear spar, trial fit the W30 leading and W17 trailing edges.
Sand to fit if necessary. Once satisfied with the fit, glue all the parts of the
wing centre section with medium cyano over the building plan protected
with a sheet of thin clear plastic film (you might find better gluing ribs to
the W13 main spar shear webbing with an aliphatic resin).
◊ Edge glue together the W24 upper D-box sheeting (1.5 mm balsa) and
the W26 upper 8x2 mm spruce stick main spar; once cured glue it to the
wing using aliphatic resin. Use a hardwood stick positioned along the
leading edge to push the balsa sheeting straight and even to the W30
leading edge.
◊ Glue the W26 lower 8x2 mm spruce stick main spar in place.
◊ Bevel both two R5 end ribs of the wing centre section using the supplied
7° dihedral jig. Then glue the W6 3 mm liteply end ribs. You might find
easier doing it later; with the P32 joiners inserted and finished wing outer
panels attached.
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