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ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
AURORA
HULL
PHOTO 1: Assemble the hull structure by following the numerical order of the drawing. Before gluing the frames in place make
sure that they are correctly fitted into position "abutting" up against the corresponding slots on the false keel. It is important that
the frames are completely perpendicular to the false keel. For this operation use white glue (carpenter's glue) as the adhesive.
PHOTO 2: Paint white the part of the frame (no. 3) that projects out beyond the strut (n0. 12).
PHOTO 3/4: Line the deck (no. 15) using the planking (no. 16), starting at the centre and working towards the edges. Trim off
any excess planking using a cutter. To simulate real deck planking and caulking, mark out the lengthways lines on the planking
sheets with a pencil, as well as crossways lines at lengths of 50 mm.
PHOTO 5: Fit and glue the deck onto the frames (nos. 3 & 6) as shown in the image.
PHOTO 6: Following the same procedure, line the deck (no. 17) using the planking (no. 18).
PHOTO 7: Then fit and glue this deck (no. 17) onto frames (nos. 2 & 3). Cut out and glue into place the finial (no. 19).
PHOTOS 8/9: Glue the parts (nos. 20 & 21) together. The part (no. 21) has to be centred on the part (no. 20). Line both parts
using the lining (no. 22), then paint the front of this assembly white.
PHOTO 10: The aft deck must also be lined using the planking indicated and then, after trimming off the excess, glue it into
place. Do not trim off the side slots.
PHOTO 11: Glue the finial (no. 25) into place in such a way that it covers the edge of the aft deck.
PHOTOS 12/13: Glue the struts (nos. 26 & 27) to the bow, on both sides of the false keel and glue the struts (nos. 28, 29 & 30)
to the stern.
PHOTO 14: In order to ensure a good contact surface for the lining strakes, using a sander, sand down the reinforcing struts
and the edge of the frames working from bow to stern, and from stern to bow. Also lightly sand down the central part.
PHOTO 15: The false keel must be completely sharpened, but without losing the form of its profile.
PHOTO 16: The stern of the boat must end up as shown in the image.
PHOTOS 17/18: Paint the bottom part of the bulwarks white and glue them to the hull, as shown in the images.
PHOTO 19: Cut out and glue into place the stanchions (no. 32) distributed on the bulwarks as shown in the image.
PHOTOS 20/21: Before starting to line the hull we recommend that you soak the strakes in water so that the wood recovers its
original elasticity. Starting with the central frames, glue and pin the master strake (no. 33), using the slots in the frames as a
guide. Carry out the lining work simultaneously on both sides of the hull; i.e. every time you attach a strake to the left side attach
another to the right side. Glue the first lining strake (no. 34) above the master strake (no. 33), and then continue lining from the
master strake up to the bulwarks and from the false keel up to the master strake. Also apply glue to the edges of each strake, so
that they are glued together. Use white glue. Trim off the excess using a saw or cutter.
PHOTO 22: To complete the hull lining use pieces of the strips, filed to a point at both ends and, at bow and stern, wedge
shaped pieces filed to a point at one end only.
PHOTO 23: Line the stern area of the hull using the same lining strakes (no. 34) and then trim off the excess using a cutter.
PHOTO 24: Once you have finished the lining process, sand down the whole of the hull and file off the heads of the pins, until
you achieve a smooth and uniform surface.
PHOTOS 25/26: After filing down the hull, you must leave a 4 mm flat area at the bow, so that the stem can later be fitted here.
In the area of the stern another 4 mm flat area must also be left.
PHOTO 27: Line the exterior side of the bulwarks using the lining (no. 35), starting from the base and working up until they are
completely covered. Use contact glue for this process. As can be seen in the image, the lining only covers the bulwarks and
does not reach the top of the hull. Later use a cutter and a file to open up the scuppers.
PHOTO 28: Start lining the hull just below the bulwark lining using the parts (no. 36), and continue down towards the keel.
Alternate the lining on both sides of the hull. Use contact glue for this process.
PHOTO 29: You must also fit the lining (no. 36), starting from the false keel and working towards the bulwarks, ending up
approximately at the centre of the hull. Adjust the lining sheets at the stern of the hull as shown in the image.
PHOTO 30: To finish off this hull lining, make up pieces of the strips, filed to a point at one or both ends, to fill the gaps.
PHOTO 31: Cover the stern part of the hull with the sheets (no. 35). Trim off the excess using a cutter.
PHOTOS 32/33: This is what the bow and stern of the hull should look like once the second lining has been completed. Gently
file down the hull lining, making sure that you do not damage it.
PHOTOS 34/35: Now we can fit into place the stem, stern post and the parts that make up the keel. Use quick-drying glue for
this operation.
PHOTO 36: Having reached this stage of the assembly work you may decide to leave the boat without painting it, so that the
natural wood colours can be appreciated. If this is your choice do not fill the gaps with filler or paint the hull, and continue fitting
the parts as indicated in the photos and then, after step no. 43, varnish the hull. If this is not the case then fill any gaps in the
hull with plastic filler. When the filler has dried, gently sand down the rough finish.
PHOTOS 37/38/39: Apply a coat of sealant to the whole surface of the hull, (carefully read the manufacturer's instructions).
After once more sanding it down, paint the hull white. We suggest that you check out the plans before marking the water line on
the hull and then, using wooden chocks and a felt tip, you can rig up a tool to this end. Place the boat in a completely horizontal
position, immobilise it and then trace a line. Using masking tape isolate the area that is to be painted and paint it dark green. We
recommend that you use acrylic gloss paint. Then remove the masking tape. Finally attach the side pin racks (no. 41).
PHOTO 40: Remove the part (no. 42) from the sheet and sand it down as shown in the image.
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