4.
On the upper end of the door panel:
Balanced sound with good staging qualities, reduced sound staging and
with side biasing.
5.
Right on top of the mid/woofer:
"Dull" sound, especially with a person sitting on the passenger's seat.
Attention: The main radiation axis of both tweeters should cross at a virtual point approx.
In the center between front of passenger and driver's seat. A direct "on-axis" installation
of the tweeters, where they aim or point at the listener, is not recommended. The result of
tweeters aiming too much in direction of the listener is called "side-biasing".
The sound seems to originate from the left front door instead of playing in the center of
the dash board!
Angled mounting of the tweeter
The tweeter mounting adapter provides two bearing surfaces with two possible radiation
angles. Inside the adapter you can spot two areas with implied holes for the cable and the
fixing screws. Chose the area you want the way to mount the adapter and drill out the holes
completely: 6 mm for the cable and 2.5 mm for the screws. Mark the location where you are
going to mount the tweeters. Use the mounting adapter as a template and mark the holes
with a 6 mm diameter for the cables and two 2.5 mm holes for the screws. Drill the holes and
mount the adapter with two screws. Feed the wire through the bigger hole and connect it to
the crossover. Lock the tweeter by pushing it down into the mounting adapter.
Flush mounting of the tweeter
After choosing the best mounting location, make sure there is at least 18 mm of clearance
behind the mounting surface (cable is not taken into account!), before you start to mark
or cut anything! Cut a hole with exactly 44 mm diameter into the mounting surface using
a power drill and a circle cutter tool. Lock the tweeter by pushing it down into the hole.
To definitely secure the tweeter in the hole you can fix it with hot glue or adhesive Butyl
tape from behind.
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