DeWalt DW017 Anweisungen Seite 36

E N G L I S H
• Depress the head to allow the blade to cut through the timber and
enter the plastic kerf plate (32).
• After completing the cut, release the switch and wait for the saw blade
to come to a complete standstill before returning the head to its upper
rest position.
Performing a sliding cut (fig. O)
The guide rail allows cutting larger workpieces from 50 x 100 mm up to
500 x 1000 mm using an out-down-back sliding motion.
• Release the rail lock knob (13).
• Pull the saw head towards you and switch the tool on.
• Lower the saw blade into the workpiece and push the head back to
complete the cut.
• Proceed as descirbed above.
• Do not perform sliding cuts on workpieces smaller than
50 x 100 mm.
• Remember to lock the saw head in the rear position when the
sliding cuts are finished.
Vertical mitre cross-cut (fig. A1, A2 & P)
• Release the mitre lever (4) and depress the mitre latch (5). Move the
arm left or right to the required angle.
• The mitre latch will automatically locate at 10°, 15°, 22.5°, 31.62° and
45° both left and right, and at 50° left and 60° right. If any intermediate
angle is required hold the head firmly and lock by tightening the mitre lever.
• Always ensure that the mitre lever is locked tightly before cutting.
• Proceed as for a vertical straight cross-cut.
When mitring the end of a piece of wood with a small off-cut,
position the wood to ensure that the off-cut is to the side of
the blade with the greater angle to the fence; i.e. left mitre, off-
cut to the right - right mitre, off-cut to the left.
Bevel cuts (fig. A1, A2 & Q)
Bevel angles can be set from 48° left to 2° right and can be cut with the mitre
arm set between zero and a maximum of 45° mitre position right or left.
• Loosen the left side fence clamping knob (30) and slide the upper part
of the left side fence (3) to the left as far as it will go. Loosen the bevel
clamp handle (11) and set the bevel as desired.
• Tighten the bevel clamp handle (11) firmly.
• Proceed as for a vertical straight cross-cut.
Quality of cut
The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables, e.g. the
material being cut. When smoothest cuts are desired for moulding and
other precision work, a sharp (60 tooth carbide) blade and a slower, even
cutting rate will produce the desired results.
Ensure that the material does not creep while cutting; clamp it
securely in place. Always let the blade come to a full stop
before raising the arm. If small fibres of wood still split out at
the rear of the workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape on the
wood where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and
carefully remove tape when finished.
Body and hand position
Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating the mitre saw
will make cutting easier, more accurate and safer.
• Never place your hands near the cutting area.
• Place your hands no closer than 150 mm from the blade.
• Hold the workpiece tightly to the table and the fence when cutting.
Keep your hands in position until the switch has been released and the
blade has completely stopped.
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• Always make dry runs (without power) before finish cuts so that you
can check the path of the blade.
• Do not cross your hands.
• Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper balance.
• As you move the saw arm left and right, follow it and stand slightly to
the side of the saw blade.
• Sight through the guard louvres when following a pencil line.
Cutting picture frames, shadow boxes & other four sided projects
(fig. R1 & R2)
Trim moulding and other frames
Try a few simple projects using scrap wood until you develop a "feel" for
your saw. Your saw is the perfect tool for mitring corners like the one shown
in fig. R1. The joint shown has been made using either bevel adjustment.
- Using bevel adjustment
The bevel for the two boards is adjusted to 45° each, producing a 90° corner.
The mitre arm is locked in the zero position. The wood is positioned with
the broad flat side against the table and the narrow edge against the fence.
- Using mitre adjustment
The same cut can be made by mitring right and left with the broad surface
against the fence.
The two sketches (fig. R1 & R2) are for four side objects only. As the
number of sides changes, so do the mitre and bevel angles. The chart
below gives the proper angles for a variety of shapes, assuming that all
sides are of equal length. For a shape that is not shown in the chart, divide
180° by the number of sides to determine the mitre or bevel angle.
No. of sides
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
Compound mitre (fig. S1 & S2)
A compound mitre is a cut made using a mitre angle (fig. R2) and a bevel
angle (fig. R1) at the same time. This is the type of cut used to make
frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown in fig. S1.
If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check that the bevel
clamp knob and the mitre lock knob are securely tightened.
These knobs must be tightened after making any changes in
bevel or mitre.
• The chart shown below will assist you in selecting the proper bevel and
mitre settings for common compound mitre cuts. To use the chart,
select the desired angle "A" (fig. S2) of your project and locate that
angle on the appropriate arc in the chart. From that point follow the
chart straight down to find the correct bevel angle and straight across
to find the correct mitre angle.
• Set your saw to the prescribed angles and make a few trial cuts.
• Practice fitting the cut pieces together.
• Example: To make a 4 sided box with 25° exterior angles (angle "A")
(fig. S2), use the upper right arc. Find 25° on the arc scale. Follow the
horizontal intersecting line to either side to get the mitre angle setting
on the saw (23°).
Likewise follow the vertical intersecting line to the top or bottom to get
the bevel angle setting on the saw (40°). Always try cuts on a few scrap
pieces of wood to verify the settings on the saw.
Angle mitre or bevel
45°
36°
30°
25.7°
22.5°
20°
18°