DeWalt DW706 Anweisungen Seite 31

If any intermediate angle or 48° is required hold the head firmly and
lock by tightening the mitre clamp knob.
• Always ensure that the mitre clamp knob is locked tightly before cutting.
• Proceed as for a vertical straight cross-cut.
When mitring the end of a piece of wood with a small off-cut,
position the wood to ensure that the off-cut is to the side of
the blade with the greater angle to the fence; i.e. left mitre, off-
cut to the right - right mitre, off-cut to the left.
Bevel cuts (fig. A1, A2 & N)
Bevel angles can be set from 48° left to 48° right and can be cut with the
mitre arm set between zero and a maximum of 45° mitre position right or left.
Left bevel
• Loosen the left side fence clamping knob (21) and slide the upper part
of the left side fence (7) to the left as far as it will go. Loosen the bevel
clamp handle (17) and set the bevel as desired.
• Tighten the bevel clamp handle (17) firmly.
• Proceed as for a vertical straight cross-cut.
Right bevel
• Loosen the right side fence clamping knob (19) and slide the upper
part of the right side fence (3) to the right as far as it will go. Loosen the
bevel clamp handle (17), pull out the override pin (26), and set the bevel
as desired.
• Tighten the bevel clamp handle (17) firmly.
• Proceed as for a vertical straight cross-cut.
Quality of cut
The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables, e.g. the
material being cut. When smoothest cuts are desired for moulding and
other precision work, a sharp (60 tooth carbide) blade and a slower, even
cutting rate will produce the desired results.
Ensure that the material does not creep while cutting; clamp it
securely in place. Always let the blade come to a full stop
before raising the arm. If small fibres of wood still split out at
the rear of the workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape on the
wood where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and
carefully remove tape when finished.
Body and hand position
Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating the mitre saw
will make cutting easier, more accurate and safer.
• Never place your hands near the cutting area.
• Place your hands no closer than 150 mm from the blade.
• Hold the workpiece tightly to the table and the fence when cutting.
Keep your hands in position until the switch has been released and the
blade has completely stopped.
• Always make dry runs (without power) before finish cuts so that you
can check the path of the blade.
• Do not cross your hands.
• Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper balance.
• As you move the saw arm left and right, follow it and stand slightly to
the side of the saw blade.
• Sight through the guard louvres when following a pencil line.
Clamping the workpiece (fig. A5)
• Whenever possible, clamp the wood to the saw.
• For best results use the clamp (33) made for use with your saw. Clamp
the workpiece to the fence whenever possible. You can clamp to either
side of the saw blade; remember to position your clamp against a
solid, flat surface of fence.
23
Always use a material clamp when cutting non-ferrous metals.
Support for long pieces (fig. A3)
• Always support long pieces.
• For best results, use the extension work support (31) to extend the
table width of your saw (available from your dealer as an option).
Support long workpieces using any convenient means such as saw-
horses or similar devices to keep the ends from dropping.
Cutting picture frames, shadow boxes & other four sided projects
(fig. O1 & O2)
Trim moulding and other frames
Try a few simple projects using scrap wood until you develop a "feel" for
your saw. Your saw is the perfect tool for mitring corners like the one
shown in fig. O1. The joint shown has been made using either bevel
adjustment.
Using bevel adjustment
The bevel for the two boards is adjusted to 45° each, producing a 90°
corner. The mitre arm is locked in the zero position. The wood is
positioned with the broad flat side against the table and the narrow edge
against the fence.
Using mitre adjustment
The same cut can be made by mitring right and left with the broad surface
against the fence.
The two sketches (fig. O1 & O2) are for four side objects only. As the
number of sides changes, so do the mitre and bevel angles. The chart
below gives the proper angles for a variety of shapes, assuming that all
sides are of equal length. For a shape that is not shown in the chart, divide
180° by the number of sides to determine the mitre or bevel angle.
No. of sides
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
Compound mitre (fig. P1 & P2)
A compound mitre is a cut made using a mitre angle (fig. O2) and a bevel
angle (fig. O1) at the same time. This is the type of cut used to make
frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown in fig. P1.
If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check that the bevel
clamp knob and the mitre lock knob are securely tightened.
These knobs must be tightened after making any changes in
bevel or mitre.
• The chart shown below will assist you in selecting the proper bevel and
mitre settings for common compound mitre cuts. To use the chart,
select the desired angle "A" (fig. P2) of your project and locate that
angle on the appropriate arc in the chart. From that point follow the
chart straight down to find the correct bevel angle and straight across
to find the correct mitre angle.
• Set your saw to the prescribed angles and make a few trial cuts.
• Practice fitting the cut pieces together.
E N G L I S H
Angle mitre or bevel
45°
36°
30°
25.7°
22.5°
20°
18°
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