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ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
Photo 1: Dampen the bottom of the boat (2) so that it is easier to curve, and then glue it to the false keel (1), with quick-drying glue. To facilitate this task, both pieces have insert slots that fit
together.Glue frames 3,4, 5 and 6 into their corresponding slots.
Photo 2: Fit the sides of the central box (7) into place. Using strips 8, 9 10,11 and 12, form the false frames of the bottom, and finish them by curving the bottom of the boat.
Photo 3: Cut 5 40-mm pieces of veneer (13) to make the cover of the central box. Put the upper and lower frames (14), and the left side frame (15) in place. Use a piece of the same strip to
cut out the handle (16). Cut out 9 40-mm pieces of the strip (17) and glue them to the false frames located between frames 5 and 6, to form the footrest. Leave a small space between the
strips.
Photo 4: Glue the mast support (18), and the lower mast tabernacle (19) to frame 3.
Photos 5 and 6:
Use white glue to glue the deck (20), and fasten it with nails (A). Glue in the boards of the bow (21) and stern (22). You want them to be in line with the curve of the deck. Use quick-drying
glue for this task.At the ends of these pieces on the inside, position the battens of the bow (23) and stern (24). Sand down the edges of the frames and the boards of the bow and stern, to
dull any rough edges and ensure that the strakes are adjusted to the curvature of the hull. Also see Photo 8.
Photo 7: Use pieces 25, 26, 27 and 28 to form the boards of the bow and stern, which will be glued on top of the deck, and on the bulkhead and transom. Use quick-drying glue for this.
Cut away the extra material, so that everything adjusts to the shape of the pieces.
Photo 8:
Line the hull with the strakes (29). Starting with the bottom of the boat, glue and nail (A) each strake to the frames and boards of the bow and stern, using white glue.
Only place seven strakes on each side of the boat.
Photo 9: Glue the bulwarks (30) over the last lining strake, using quick-drying glue.
Photo 10:
Affix strips (31) for the side false frames next to those already in place on the floor of the boat. Glue the deck stringers where the deck comes together with the inside of the bulwarks (32).
Position gunwales (33, 34 and 35) over the bulwarks and upper boards of the bow and stern. Position the rubbing strakes (36) at the height of the deck on both sides. Use quick-drying glue
for this.
Photo 11: Glue in the outer battens of the bow (37) as well as the side battens (38) and the keel (39).
Do the same with the outer battens of the stern (40) and the sternpost (41). Use quick-drying glue for this.
Photo 12:
Position and glue the benches of the bow (42), central area (43) and stern (44) over the frames. You may use the inner frames of the sides (45) as a guide to help you set the distance
between them. Glue the frames (45), the bow piece (46) and the stern piece (47) into place in the inner hollow of the deck, using quick-drying glue. Glue the six inside pieces (48) in the
space between the benches, on the inside of the bulwarks. Once these pieces are in place, glue the six outside pieces (49) into place.
Make a Ø 1.5-mm hole in the centre of each rower and insert and glue the oarlocks (50).
Paint the inside, as it will be more difficult to do so later, when the other pieces are in place.
Photo 13:
To make the tiller, follow these directions: Align and glue piece 52 onto one end of an outer tiller piece (51), and piece 53 onto the other end. Over these pieces, glue the other tiller piece
(51) so that there is a hole in the centre. Use a file to file down the upper section of the rudder blade (54), to insert it onto the rudder shaft. Glue the shaft to the blade. Place two hinges (55)
on the sternpost, using the nails (A) and hinge shafts (56). Place another two hinges (55) on the rudder blade, yet this time without shafts.
Check to see that the hinges are properly separated, so that the rudder fits perfectly.
Photo 14:
Glue pieces 57 and 58 to form the support for the stern sheave, and in its groove, place the sheave (59) running the axle (60) through it. Next, place an eyebolt (61) at the foot of the stern
sheave support, on the deck.
Position the bow beams (62) in the two corners of union for the tacks and stern boards. On the inside of the stern board, on the starboard side, place the chain pipe (63). Beforehand, you
will need to make two 1-mm holes. Place the beams (64) in the corners of union for the tacks and stern boards.
Photo 15: Assemble the four oars with the blades (65), the looms (66) and the handles (67).
Photo 16:
Insert the belaying pins (68) into the holes located at the ends of the bow bench.
Glue a tabernacle (19) into the central hole, and insert the mast (69) into the tabernacle located on the floor of the boat.
Prepare the yard (70). For the mast and yard assembly, see the mast diagram.
Photo 17:
Insert the supports (72) into the holes of the anchor fluke (71). You will use the string (73) to fasten the upper section of the supports.
Place the ballast stone (74) between the supports. Finally, put the handle into place, using a piece of string (75) folded in a "U" shape, which you will run through the holes of the fluke.
Photo 18:
IT
Use pieces 76, 77, 78 and 79 to assemble the bailer. Use pieces 80, 81 and 82 to assemble the compass box.Cut the compass card (83) and glue it to the base (84). Drive two nails (A)
through the sides of the box and nail them to the compass. Try not to allow the compass to sit on the bottom of the box, for an oscillating effect. Position the handle (86) on the lid (85) and
glue it to the box, using the two hinges (87).
Photo 19:
To make the gadaña gaff, insert the hook (88) onto one sharpened end of the handle (90).
Form a lashing with the brass wire (89). On the other end, drill a ø 1-mm hole in the side and insert a cotton string (91), which will be used to form a small roll.
Photo 20:
To make the scoop net, use a bottle cap or similar object measuring approximately ø 26 mm to make a hoop (92). Insert the hoop onto the stick (93) and attach it with a lashing (94). Sew
the net (95) to the hoop with the thread (96), and the netting to itself with piece 97.
Photo 21: Form the boathook by inserting piece 100 onto the stick (98), gluing piece 101 and making a lashing (99).Insert two eyebolts (61) into the caldron (102), to attach the handle
(103).
Photos 22 to 26
Sew the brails (108) to the sails. Sew the sail (104) to the yard (70) with the lashings (105). Using the string (105), rig the yard as follows:
Run the string through a ø 1.5-mm hole, which you will make in the port-side bulwark between the two aftermost rowers. Run the string up to the highest point of the mast and through the
hole there. Tie it to the yard and attach it to the end of the port-side belaying pin (68). To rig the sails, follow these steps:From the lowest fore-end of the sail, pull a rope (106) that goes
through the fore eyebolt (61) to end in the starboard belaying pin (68). On the other end of the sail, pull a rope (107) through the chain pipe 63 and under the benches. Tie it to the starboard
belaying pin (68), as well. Cut out and glue the boat name (109) and registration number (110) to the bulwarks. Tie the anchor handle to the rope (111) with a lashing (112) and form a small
roll on the floor of the boat.
We have designed this model with one single goal in mind: so that you will enjoy yourself while building a beautiful reproduction of a magnificent scaled model. If we have achieved this, then
our mission is complete. Thank you.
OCCRE
CARMIÑA
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