Care And Maintenance - Beal Dynamikseil Anleitung

WARNING - Beal dynamic ropes are treated with
a durable yarn cover to increase resistance to wear
and humidity, and thus increase their active lifetime.
When new, the braking effect of descenders and
belaying devices is reduced. Before using the rope
together with any friction device, check that the
combination works effectively and securely to avoid
any braking surprises.
USE
•
Before any use, read this notice carefully and
then retain it.
•
This product is a dynamic rope intended for
use in climbing. It is capable of use as a link in a
safety chain designed to hold a fall.
•
Types of ropes :
Fig.1
- Single rope. May be used as a single rope as a link
in the safety chain.
- Half rope. Use in adventure climbing,
mountaineering or long climbs where abseil
descent may be necessary.
- Twin rope. For mountain and icefall use.
Clipping 2 strands essential.
•
You must never use just one strand of half, or
twin, rope, except as a walker's aid.
•
During a climb it is necessary to take into
account the effects of arresting a dynamic fall by
using or placing protection points to prevent
hitting the ground.
•
For abseils or top roping from the pitch base
Fig.3
check that the rope is at least twice the pitch length.
For greater abseil safety knot the end of the ropes.
•
The various components of the safety chain
(harness, karabiners, tape, slings, anchors, belaying
devices, descenders) should conform to UIAA or
EN Standards. Select an appropriate belay device
for use with thinner diameter ropes.
•
In case of use with a mechanical device,
ensure that the diameter of the rope and its other
characteristics are adapted to, and compatible with
the device.
•
Please note : When a rope is new, the braking
effectiveness of belay devices is significantly
reduced.
•
The recommended knot for tying-on is a
Fig.4
well-tightened figure of 8 loop.
•
Do not use a karabiner for tying-in if there
is the risk of a fall.
•
To tie 2 ropes together in preparing an abseil,
Fig.5
use a double fisherman's knot or a tape knot or a
figure of 8 loop.
PRECAUTIONS
•
Before first use, it's essential to unwind the
Fig.2
rope as shown in the diagrams to avoid twists and
kinking.
•
The rope must be protected against sharp
Fig.6
edges, stone fall, iceaxes, crampons, anything
which could cut the internal or external fibres of
the rope.
Attention : The "UIAA Sharp Edge Resistance"
test is no guarantee that the rope will hold a fall
over a sharp or abrasive rock edge.
•
Rubbing together of two ropes through
Fig.7
karabiners or maillons induces heat which could
result in rupture.
•
Doubling the rope for abseiling or top
Fig.8
roping from the base of a pitch must be through a
karabiner or a maillon rapide:
- Not through slings
- Not over branches
- Not through the eye of a piton or hanger
•
Avoid over-rapid abseiling or lowering
which could burn the rope and accelerate sheath
wear. The melting temperature of polyamide is
230°C. This temperature may be attained during
very rapid descents.
•
Check that there are no burrs or snags on
karabiners or descenders.
•
Do not switch the role of karabiners. Reserve
some exclusively for running the rope through,
and use different ones for clipping anchors. The
latter use may score the karabiner, leading to
deterioration of any rope running through it.
•
When affected by water or ice the rope
Dyn 25.indd 2
English
becomes much more sensitive to abrasion and
loses strength: redouble your precautions.
•
The temperature in which the rope is stored
or used must never exceed 80°C.
•
Before and during use, the possibility of
rescue in case of difficulty must be considered.

CARE AND MAINTENANCE

•
A rope must not be allowed contact with
chemical agents, particularly acids which may
destroy the fibers without visible evidence.
•
Avoid unnecessary exposure to UV, store the
Fig.9
rope in a cool, shaded place, away from dampness
and direct heat.
•
It is preferable to use a rope sack for
transporting and for laying the rope out at the
base of the cliff to protect against dirt and reduce
twisting.
•
If the rope is dirty, it may be washed in
Fig.10
clear cold water, if necessary with a washing
agent designed for delicate textiles, using a brush
made with synthetic bristles. Disinfect only using
materials that have no effect on the synthetic
materials used.
•
If the rope is wet, after use or washing, leave
to dry in a cool, shaded place.
•
Before and after each use inspect the rope
Fig.11
visually and manually along its entire length.
•
This product must be inspected periodically
and meticulously, every 3 months if in frequent
use, annually for occasional use.
•
The rope is personal equipment. During
any use away from you it may be subject to grave
damage, which may not be visible.
•
If a rope is cut into a number of lengths,
repeat and affix to each new end the markings of
the original ends.
LIFETIME
•
Lifetime = Time of storage before first use
+ time in use.
•
The working life depends on the frequency
and the type of use.
•
Abrasion, UV exposure and humidity
gradually degrade the properties of the rope.
•
Note that with use, a rope thickens and thus
loses up to 10 % length.
•
Storage time : In good storage conditions
this product may be kept for 5 years before first
use without affecting its future lifetime duration
in use.
•
Lifetime :
- Intensive and daily use : 1 year
- Weekly and intensive use : 2 years
- Daily in-season use of average intensity : 3 years
- Weekly in-season use of average intensity : 5 years
- Several uses during the year of average intensity
: 7 years
- Very occasional light use : 10 years.
Attention : These are the nominal lifetimes
indicated, a rope could be destroyed during its first
use. It is the inspections which determine if the
product must be scrapped more quickly. Proper
storage between uses is essential. The lifetime of the
rope in use must never exceed 10 years. The total
maximum lifetime (storage before use + lifetime in
use) is thus limited to 15 years.
•
The rope must be retired earlier :
Fig.12
- if it has held a major fall, approaching fall factor 2
- if inspection reveals or even indicates damage to
the core
- if the sheath is very worn
- if it has been in contact with any active or
dangerous chemicals.
- if there is the slightest doubt about its security.
WARNING
•
The various cases of wrong use shown in this
notice are not exhaustive, there are innumerable
wrong uses possible, it is not feasible to show them
all.
•
This product is designed for climbing and
mountaineering only.
•
Climbing and mountaineering are inherently
dangerous.
•
Special knowledge and training are required
to use this product.
•
This product must only be used by competent
and responsible persons, or those placed under the
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