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Cover Hem
A majority of ready-to-wear garments use a
flat construction method for hems with the
side seam sewn last. Many home sewers
prefer sewing "in the round".
Sewing the Cover Hem "In the Round"
Method 1
Press up the hem allowance and place fabric
under the presser foot. Use markings on the
sewing table as a sewing guide. Stitch around
the hem and, upon reaching the original start
point, overlap the stitches approximately 13
mm (1/2") and stop. Cut the needle threads
after giving them a little slack. Remove fabric
from machine. Pull threads to underside and
tie off. Apply a small amount of seam sealant
to knotted threads.
Method 2
Stitch around the hem; overlap the original
starting point for about 13 mm (1/2"). Stop;
needles will be up. Hand turn the flywheel
towards you to bring needles to the lowest
position into the fabric. Carefully reverse the
flywheel, bringing needles to the highest
position. This technique prevents the
needle threads from wrapping around the
chain looper. Set the Brown tension dial on
"0". Lift the presser foot and press the tension
release lever. Firmly pull fabric and threads to
the left. Cut and pull threads to the underside
to tie off. Apply a small amount of seam
sealant to knotted threads. Reset the Brown
tension dial on "N".
When sewing a cover hem over bulky
seams it will be necessary to adjust foot
pressure to 1 when reaching seam to
prevent skipped stitches. After the foot
has "cleared" the seam, return to normal
pressure of 5.
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