Kavan CUMUL DLG Bauanleitung Seite 4

◊ Glue the balsa reinforcement plate F2L to the inner side of the F3L fuse-
lage left side (with the large opening for the F11 hatch); glue the plate
F2R to the inner side of the F3R fuselage right side (without the hatch
opening). (Fig. 3)
◊ Glue the F14 locking plate to the front of the F11 hatch; the locking plate
has to match the position of a notch in the F2L reinforcement plate and
the hatch matches the opening in the F3L fuselage side. The pair of F15
magnets will be epoxied into the F11 hatch and F2L plate only after the
fuselage is covered – otherwise the high temperature of your sealing iron
might de-magnetize the magnets. (Fig. 22)
◊ Epoxy the M4 aluminium captive nut into the F9 fuselage brace. Do not
forget bevelling the edges of the fuselage formers and braces where
required.
◊ Epoxy the fuselage formers and braces F10, F9, F8, F6 first into one fuse-
lage side from the rear to the nose and then attach the other side. Put the
fuselage straight bottom side onto the building plan protected by a sheet
of thin clear plastic film and check the fuselage is true and straight - pin
down as necessary until the glue sets. (Fig. 5)
◊ Epoxy the F4 former in place and bevelled F5 nose balsa block as well as
the F17 and F18 cross braces.
◊ Epoxy the tow hook plate F7 in place. (Fig. 6)
◊ Partially cut (ca 0.5-1 mm deep) and crack the fuselage sides along the
F10 fuselage former (the cut line is to be soaked with thin CA before the
final sanding). Slide the tail boom tube F1 onto the openings in F8 and
F10 formers – do not glue yet.
◊ Slide the F21 liteply tail boom fairing ring onto the tail boom F1; tack glue
the fuselage sides to the ring (be sure not to glue the tail boom yet). Glue
the top and bottom balsa plates F20 and F19 in place. (Fig. 7)
◊ Glue the three piece upper F13a, F13b, F13C and F16 lower 2.5 mm balsa
sheeting to the fuselage.
◊ Sand the entire fuselage (with the F11 hatch in place) so the tail end inc-
luding the F21 ring fits smoothly the tail boom.
Wing
◊ The wing is to be built directly on the building plan protected by a sheet of
thin clear plastic film. The wing ribs and riblets are supplied with jig
tabs on the bottom side to allow building the wing with undercambe-
red profile on a flat surface; in the same time producing the washout (the
wing trailing edge is higher by 3 mm at the tips than at the root) necessa-
ry for stable flight of the model. DO NOT CUT the mounting jigs; they
will be removed only after the entire wing has been built. There
is also the rib spacing jig to set the leading edge ends of rib and riblet
mounting jigs correctly. (Fig. 1 + 9 + 10)
◊ Epoxy together the wing central ribs W4 and W5; insert 3 mm beech
dowels into the holes in order to obtain correct match. Note: Make a left
and right pair of assemblies.
◊ Glue together the wing tip W28 with the plywood reinforcement plate
W40 to the trailing edge W30 on a flat working surface; glue the W26 and
W27 reinforcement plates in place creating a notch for the plywood wing
tip spar W29. (Fig. 11 + 12)
◊ Thread all the wing ribs and riblets W3 to W24 onto the main spar carbon
tube W35; use a round file to trim the openings in the ribs to set the ribs
in the required angle. (Fig. 10)
◊ Put the main spar with ribs onto the building plan and insert the ends
of ribs into the corresponding notches in the trailing edge W30. Insert
the front ends of the rib jig tabs into the corresponding notches of the
rib spacing jig. Align all the parts to the correct position over the building
plan; pin down where necessary and then glue the ribs W4 to W23 to the
main spar tube and the trailing edge. Epoxy the wing tip spar W29 into
the main spar tube and to the wing tip into the notch between the W26
and W27 reinforcement plates. Glue the wing tip to the W24 rib and fina-
lly the W24 rib to the main spar and trailing edge. Glue the balsa gusset
W25 between the W24 rib and W23 riblet.
◊ Glue the root rib W3 using the root rib dihedral jig in place. (Fig. 13)
◊ Trim the notches for the leading edge W36 (3 mm beech dowel) in the
ribs and riblets as necessary. Glue the leading edge (starting from the
wing tip and then rib by rib towards the wing root). (Fig. 14)
◊ Epoxy the plywood wing joiner bay plates W33 into the W3 and W4/W5
ribs - be sure the bay will accommodate the W34 wing joiner nicely. (Fig. 15)
◊ Now you can carefully cut the rib jig tabs using a sharp modeller's knife.
Sand the bottom side of all ribs and riblets to shape with No. 120 sand
paper.
◊ Glue the bottom wing centre 1.5 mm balsa sheeting W39 and W40 in
place; glue the plywood reinforcement plate W41 on the top of W40
along the area of the wing fixing bolt. (Fig. 16)
◊ Glue the top wing centre 1.5 mm balsa sheeting W37 and W38 in place.
Sand the wing root flush with the W3 rib - the slanted position set with
the root rib dihedral jig ensures the correct wing dihedral.
◊ Assemble the other wing half in the same way.
◊ Sand both two wing halves with No. 120 sand paper. Trial fit - no glue yet
- the wing halves and the W34 wing joiner; insert the riblets W1 and W2
between the root ribs. Once satisfied with the fit, epoxy the W34 wing
joiner, W1 and W2 riblets to one wing half. Then slide on and epoxy the
other half. Double check the correct wing halves alignment and let the
epoxy set. (Fig 17 + 23 + 24)
◊ Epoxy the wing bolt plate W32 to the top of the wing centre; once the
glue has cured drill 4.2 mm hole for the wing bolt through the W32.
◊ Now it is the time to decide which tip of the wing the discus launch pin
is to be glued into - the left tip for a right-handed pilot, the right tip for a
left-handed pilot. Laminate a strip of the fibreglass cloth around the hole
for the discus launch pin on top and bottom of the wing tip. You can use
a special low-viscosity laminating/finishing epoxy or you can use regular
epoxy glue thinned slightly by an epoxy paint/dope thinner. Once the
resin has cured, sand the entire wing smooth with No. 180 sand paper.
Covering
◊ Thoroughly sand the surface of all parts with No. 360-400 sandpaper and
carefully vacuum all the dust (the iron-on film does not stick well to a
dusty surface; the dust also contains hard grains released off the sand-
paper capable to ruin the smooth coating of your sealing iron quickly).
◊ Use as light iron-on film as you can get (transparent Oracover, Oralite etc.
– not supplied in the kit). Follow the instruction manual supplied with
the covering film of your choice please.
Final Assembly
Hinging the Control Surfaces
◊ Use strips of a high quality hinging tape (available in hobby shops) or stri-
ps of the same iron-on film you used for the covering. Remember to apply
the tape with the control surface deflected to the limit in order to get free
movement of the particular control surface. (Fig. 19)
Fuselage and Tail
◊ Using a very sharp pointed modeller's knife, cut the covering film over the
opening for the tailplane pylon in the horizontal stabilizer, over slots for
the Kevlar® thread in the fin and over control horn slots in the elevator
and rudder.
◊ Insert the tailplane pylon F22 into the F1 tail boom - no glue yet. Insert
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