Werbung
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
ENDEAVOUR
HULL
PHOTO 1: Start by joining the parts that make up the false keel (1 & 2) and then glue on the reinforcing pieces (3). Following
the numerical order indicated in the photo, fit the frames (4 to 13). Before gluing the frames in place make sure that they fit
correctly into position, flush with the corresponding slots in the false keel. It is important that the frames be completely
perpendicular to the false keel so that the decks can subsequently be fitted correctly into place. For this operation use white
(carpenter's) glue as the adhesive.
PHOTO 2: Line the half deck (14) using the lining strips (15). Start along the straight edge of the deck and work towards the
other side. Use contact adhesive, (cobbler's glue). Using the wooden handle of a tool, rub the strips firmly against the deck so
that they stick firmly into place. Then place the deck face down, trim off the excess strips and open up the slots, using a cutter.
PHOTO 3: Now carry out the same operation to line the other half of the deck (14). Use a pencil to mark crossways lines every
65 mm of length. Then mark two points on each side of the crossways lines, to simulate a planking and nailing effect.
PHOTO 4: Now glue the lined deck onto the structure of the ship. It is important to make sure that the deck is correctly
supported on the frames. For this process use fast-drying glue. Measure the interior space between the frames and cut to size
the beams (16) and then fit and glue them into place on the frames.
PHOTO 5: Line the two halves of the deck (17) using the liner (18). Using a pencil again simulate the planking and nailing
effect. Now glue this deck onto the beams (16). Use fast-drying glue. Apply a colourless pore-filling lacquer to finish the deck.
PHOTO 6: Line the bulkhead (19) with the lining (20). Now insert and glue the bulkhead into place on the deck (17). Make sure
that it is absolutely vertical, as shown.
PHOTO 7: Cut the beams (21) to size and glue them into place at the stern end of the hull.
PHOTOS 8 & 9: Now carry out the same operations to fit into place the reinforcement (22), the beams (23) and the lining (24) at
the bow end of the hull.
PHOTO 10: Line the deck (25) using the liner (26), and then trim off any excess and mark, using a pencil, to simulate planking
and nailing. Now glue this deck on to the bow end of the hull, as shown.
PHOTO 11: Line the deck (27), using the liner (28), trim off any excess liner and mark using a pencil to simulate planking and
nailing. Now glue this deck into place on the stern end of the hull.
PHOTO 12: Insert and glue into place the reinforcements (29) to the stern end of the hull. Use white (carpenters') glue.
PHOTOS 13 & 14: Soak the bulwarks (30, 31 & 32) in water, for some twenty minutes, so that they become flexible, and then
use fast-drying glue to glue them into place as shown in the photos. Use a sander to sand down the stern area if necessary
before fitting the stern bulwarks.
PHOTO 15: Insert and glue the reinforcement (33) into place at the stern end of the hull.
PHOTOS 16 & 17: Soak some strips (34) in water, so that they become flexible, and then glue them onto the interior side of the
bulwarks, working up until they surpass the height of the bulwarks. Now cut off the excess of the lining strips, level with the
bulwarks. Sand the profiles and surfaces down using sandpaper to eliminate possible level differences.
PHOTOS 18 & 19: Now glue the lining (35 & 36) onto the inside of the bulwarks , until they surpass the height of the bulwarks
Now, using the wooden handle of a tool, press it down to make sure that it is firmly glued into place. Trim off the excess lining
from the bulwarks.
PHOTO 20: Cut the strips to size to make up the frames (37, 38, 39 & 40). Stain them the colour of walnut wood, or similar, and
then glue them into place as shown in the photo.
PHOTO 20: Cut the strips to size to make up the frames (37, 38, 39 & 40). Stain them the colour of walnut wood, or similar, and
then glue them into place as shown in the photo.
PHOTOS 21 & 22: Glue the base (43) to the lower deck. Now cut to size and make up the stairs, using the steps (42) and the
uprights (41). Now glue the stairs onto the base.
PHOTO 23: Cut the strips to size and then stain them to make up the frames (44 & 45). Glue them to the hatchway, flush with
the lower part of the deck.
PHOTO 24: Cut the strips to size and then stain them to make up the frames (46 & 47). Now round off one edge of the strips
(48 & 49), stain them and then use them to make up the frame.
PHOTOS 25 & 26: Cut the slats (50) to size and stain them with the colour of walnut wood, or similar, and make 0.75 mm
diameter holes at the end of each slat. Open the eyebolts and insert a ring (51) into each one. Close the eyebolts again and
insert one into each hole in the slats. Do not glue the slats. Make up and glue the finishes (52) into place, as shown.
PHOTO 27: Make up the frames (53 & 54) and glue them into place over the hole in the quarter deck.
PHOTOS 28 & 29: Make up and attach the reinforcements (55) to the bow end of the false keel and (56) to the stern end of the
hull.
PHOTOS 30 - 33: Place the hull upside down and using a sanding block begin to sand it down, starting at the bow and working
back towards the stern. You have to sand down the reinforcement pieces and the edges of the frames, although without
changing their original shape. You must sand the hull symmetrically, i.e. the right and left sides have to end up the same. For
the area in the middle of the hull use a sanding block with a larger surface area and, for the stern, you can use a half-round file.
The sanding or filing must be progressive and smooth.
PHOTOS 34 & 35: Bend a strip around the frames to check that the sanding has been uniform. If necessary use a half-round
file to even up the stern reinforcements.
PHOTOS 36 - 41: Apply glue to the edge of the lower deck and glue a strip (57) to it, from the first frame to beyond the last
frame. Now attach it using the pins (A). For this operation you can use the special hand-nailer, which will prove of great use.
The hand-nailer is an OcCre (optional) tool, that is used to hold and drive home the pins, by inserting one end head first into
the tube, which is then held in by the nailer's magnet. By pushing the nailer against the wood, as if it were a punch, the pin is
driven into the wood. Now trim off the excess strips, making sure they are flush with the last frame. Continue fitting strips,
working up towards the bulwarks. Use a file to even up the ends of the strips, making sure they are flush with the first frame.
Werbung
