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TROUBLE SHOOTING
DECREASE IN WATER FLOW
1. If you notice that your water ow is decreasing the most likely cause is that the lter needs to be backwashed. The bead lter is designed
to trap solids and does it very well. When fully loaded with solids, the lter may restrict ow. Perform a backwash and rinse.
2. If after backwashing the lter the water ow is still low, next check the strainer basket on the pump. Be sure that it is clean and replace.
3. If the ow is still low after cleaning your pre- lter and there was plenty of ow through the pump, then you need to inspect the internals
of the lter. Check to see if the laterals are clear of obstruction and that the beads are not caked into large clumps. When the bead pack
gets "gelled" they are hard to break apart with backwashing and doing a blower treatment. They may need to be manually broken apart.
When the beads are gelled they tend to cause "Channelling," which means that the bead pack is totally clogged and water will follow
paths of little resistance through or around the bead pack. When Channelling is occurring you will notice that after backwashing the lter
quickly clogs and ow slows in intervals that used to take 1-2 weeks, now ow slows in 2-3 days. Follow the directions in the internal
inspection section of the lter operation section of the manual.
4. If you follow the above steps and your ow is still low, PLEASE call your dealer.
TROUBLE SHOOTING DECREASE IN WATER CLARITY
1. If your lter has a mature bacterial colony, which could take up to 4-6 weeks at temps. above 60-65 degrees F. (15-22º C), and your water
quality and clarity have been good then decrease, the rst thing to do is a good backwash and rinse. Spend an extra amount of time with
the blower agitation of the beads.
2. If your clarity does not improve or improves then decreases quickly, open the lter and inspect the internal condition of the laterals and
the beads. If the beads are gelled and channelling is occurring, then the water will bypass most of the bead pack and no mechanical
ltration will occur. Manually break up the beads and make sure the laterals are clear of obstruction.
3. If your water clarity does not improve, and you have UV-lights on the system, check to see if the bulbs are still working. Depending on the
bulb, some UV-light bulbs will only have killing power for six months of continuous run. Others will last for a year or longer. Check to see
when they were last changed and replace if needed. They should be changed at least once a season.
4. If your clarity does not improve, check the water ow out of the system. The entire pond water volume should be turned over through the
lter system at least 3-4 times per day. If turn over time is slow then the amount of solids that the lter can capture will decrease. Check to
make sure that there are no ow restrictions. Follow the low ow trouble-shooting chart. Also make sure that your pump is large enough
to move the amount of water needed for enough turn overs through the lter.
5. If after following the above suggestions and the clarity has not improved, PLEASE call your dealer.
HIGH AMMONIA AND NITRITE WITH PREVIOUSLY STABLE STATE
If your pond has been up and running at warm temperatures (60-70 F or +/- 20º C) for six or more weeks and your ammonia and nitrite levels
have been previously controlled, but you experience a spike in the ammonia level try the following:
1. Perform an extra long blower treatment on the bead pack and an extra long backwash. If the bead pack becomes totally clogged with
solids, the available surface area for bioconversion drops signi cantly. Backwashing will open up the active surface area and bioconversion
will resume.
2. If after backwashing the ammonia levels are still high, open the lter. Check the laterals to make sure they are clear, stir the beads to break
up any gelled areas and then backwash.
3. If ammonia levels are still high, consider how much food is being fed to the sh. One cubic foot of mature beads can handle around one
pound of 35% protein food per day. Check to see how many cubic feet of beads are in your lter and compare that with the amount of food
you are feeding.
4. If ammonia levels are still high, check the ow rate through the lter. The entire volume of the pond should be turned over through the
lter AT LEAST 3-4 times per day. If the ow is down for some reason, bioconversion of ammonia will also slow. If you nd the ow is in fact
down, follow the troubleshooting ow chart for correcting low ows.
5. If all the above are found to be in good condition, consider the sh load on the pond. This actually also relates to the above discussion
about amount of food fed. If you have a heavily stocked pond you will also be feeding more to the sh and thus adding more nitrogen to
the pond water that will have to be bio converted. Again, consider your lter size and what you are asking it to do.
6. If the ammonia levels are still high, call your dealer.
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