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ADVICE AND DETAILED SETTINGS FOR THE OPERATOR
How to start your engine ?
Note: The piston of the engine can feel tight at the top of its stroke (TDC) when the engine is cold, and
this is normal. The piston/sleeve is designed in a way that when the engine has reached its normal
temperature this fit is perfect and so the engine produces the best possible power.
1) Fill up the fuel tank.
2) When starting the engine for the first time of the day, prime the engine by covering the exhaust pipe
stinger while spinning the flywheel with the help of the starter box for 2 seconds; when using a pull
starter, pull 4 to 5 times. This will build up extra pressure in the pipe and in the pressure line to the fuel
tank, causing the fuel to be pushed into the carburettor.
3) Spin the flywheel with the help of your starter box (do not apply the glow plug igniter) for about 3
seconds or when using a pull starter pull 4 to 5 times so the fuel goes through the engine. When using
the starter box you will notice an increase of rpm, this means the fuel is going through the engine and
lubrication is making things easier.
4) Check to be certain that the throttle is closed and then apply the glow plug igniter on the glow plug
and start the engine. If the engine does not fire-up immediately, or does not make any sound that it
wants to fire-up, then do not keep trying and instead stop for a few seconds keeping the glow plug
igniter on the glow plug. After about 10 seconds, try again to start the engine, and if the engine still
does not fire-up, repeat the process from point 2. However, if the engine is flooded (too much fuel
inside), then remove the glow plug, open the throttle completely, cover the glow plug hole with a piece
of cloth, and spin the flywheel with the starter box (or pull starter). The fuel excess will be ejected
through the glow plug hole. Before mounting the glow plug again, check the operation of the glow plug
with the glow plug igniter.
WARNING : Hydraulic lockup is possible due to an excess of fuel in the engine and causes the
cylinder to flood and to prevent the piston from moving upwards. If this happens, DO NOT keep trying
to start the engine, or damage may occur. The excessive fuel also prevents the wire from glowing up
correctly and so the engine will not start.
5) Once the engine has started, open the throttle a little bit in order to gradually let the engine warm
up to the operating temperature. This is an important routine that you should always follow, especially
when the engine is still new. The internal parts need to receive lubrication and reach operating
temperature before pushing the engine to maximum performances.
TIP: When the piston/sleeve is still new the fit can be very tight so the engine start can be quite
difficult. To make this easier, you can heat up the engine with a hairdryer before starting.
If the engine fails to start :
• Check if the glow plug is still working.
• Check if the battery of the glow plug igniter is properly charged.
• Check if the fuel is reaching the carburetor.
• Check that the engine is not flooded.
6) If you have your engine equipped with a pull starter, then proceed as point 1 to 5 above. The only
thing which is important to know is never pull the cord all the way out, limit the pulls to 12 inches (30cm)
and do not insist when the engine is flooded. You could break the cord which then has worked like
a failsafe. If your would not break the cord, then you can probably break something else inside the
engine which is even worse.
Running-in procedure
A nitro engine is a mechanical masterpiece and requires careful break-in to allow the internal parts
and tight tolerances to match and reach proper operating clearances. The proper break-in of your
engine determinates its eventual performance and life. During this procedure, if you run the engine too
lean and/or you let the engine take too much rpm, you shorten the life and performance dramatically,
and you can also permanently damage the engine. Breaking-in the engine while installed in the car
takes some time, but it also allows the driveline components of the car to operate together for the first
time under controlled conditions.
1) Once you have started the engine let it run at idle (low RPM) for at least 125cc of fuel (1tank), the
idle must be regular, and if the RPM goes down and the engine stalls, you must close the idle needle
(1/4 turn at a time), and if the RPM goes up, you must open the idle needle.
2) After the engine has run at idle for 125cc, you should let the engine cool down before restarting it
(be certain that the piston is not stopped at TDC), and open the main needle for at least ½ turn more
than it was originally set. We now suggest you run the engine on the track so it will be cooled properly.
During this process, be sure the engine does not take too much RPM (the engine must be making
a sound like a four stroke engine and you must see fuel coming out of the pipe). If the engine takes
too much RPM, close the throttle immediately and open the main needle one more turn, and repeat
if necessary until the engine suffocates due to too much fuel. In this way, you will be sure there is
enough lubrication and the RPM does not get too high. Run the engine like this for at least 375cc of
fuel (3 tanks), and avoid extended periods of full throttle running.
3) After this, you can start closing the main needle so the engine takes more RPM but still makes a
four-stroke sound and smokes a lot. Continue like this for at least another 375cc of fuel (3 tanks), and
avoid extended periods of full throttle running.
4) After this, you can close the main needle further until you reach about 80% of the engine
performances (more RPM but still smoking), this for 250cc of fuel (2 tanks)
5) Then, you can really tune the engine up to 90% or 95% of its power but take care so that you do
not overheat the engine causingit to loose power. If this happens, stop immediately and open the main
needle 1/4 of a turn.
WARNING : During the break-in period the engine must always have a good and constant idle and
have plenty of smoke and excessive fuel coming out of the stinger.
6) Carburetor settings : To be able to adjust the carburetor of a nitro engine correctly, you need
patience and must try and understand how this works. Sometimes nitro engines are difficult to set,
and if you have difficulties, then we suggest you ask your LHS (Local Hobby Shop) or Dealer where
you have purchased.
the engine to help you in this matter. If however you prefer to try yourself, here is how:
WARNING : Work only on 1 carburetor adjustment at a time and make only small adjustments,
maximum 1/8 of a turn!
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Pre adjustments
Once the engine is started, let it reach operating temperature, then proceed as follows:
1) Set the main needle by holding the car off the ground, then open throttle completely. The engine
should not completely clean out and should stabilize at 80% of top RPM, but if the engine cleans out
completely and the rpm continues to climb too high, close the throttle immediately and open the main
needle and repeat the sequence, until the engine does not clean out completely and the rpm stabilizes
at 80%. If the engine runs too rich (4-stroking aIl the way), lean the main needle until the engine just
starts to clean out.
2) Set the idle rpm of the engine by holding the car off the ground, then open throttle till the engine
rpm reaches the above rpm, and then close the throttle. If the engine stalls, then you need to increase
the idle by turning the idle air screw clockwise until the engine does not stall anymore. However, when
the idle of the engine remains too high, then you need to lower the idle rpm by turning the idle air
screw counter clockwise.
3) Set the idle needle by holding the car off the ground, open the throttle until the engine reaches the
80% rpm, and then close the throttle. If the engine idles for 2-5 seconds and the idle rpm decreases,
then the idle needle is set too rich, so lean this setting by turning the idle needle clockwise. Repeat
this process until the engine has a constant rpm for at least 20-30 seconds after the throttle has been
closed. If the engine idles for 2-5 seconds and then the idle rpm increases, the engine is running too
Iean at the idle needle, so richen the idle needle by turning it counter clockwise to remedy this.
4) Set the idle rpm by using the idle air screw, and try to find a low but reliable idle rpm. A too high idle
rpm makes it more difficult to slow the car during breaking.
WARNING : When adjusting the idle needle, this can affect the idle rpm, use the idle air screw to
adjust the low rpm when it becomes too high or too low.
Once you are satisfied with your carburetor settings you are ready to put the car on the track and
make the final adjustments.
Final adjustments while driving
When ready with the pre adjustments you are now ready to put the car on the track and start your
final adjustments. If you have set your idle needle and idle rpm correctly in the pre adjustment phase
then you only need to adjust the main needle to find the correct setting and performances of your
engine. Start leaning the main needle by small increments (1/8 of a turn maximum) and run the car
again, repeating this sequence until the engine completely cleans out, accelerates well and reaches
maximum speed. To prevent your engine from running too hot, it is advised then to richen the main
needle (1/8 of a turn counter-clockwise), since running the engine too lean on the main needle will
cause the engine to overheat, resulting in excessive engine wear and possible breakage. A possible
way to check the engine temperature is to apply a few drops of water on the cylinder head. The drops
should evaporate only after 3-5 seconds, If they evaporate immediately the engine is too hot, so
richen the main needle (1/4 of a turn counter-clockwise) immediately. Check your engine temperature
regularly. Another way of knowing if your engine is running too lean, is when you are driving and the
engine starts too loose its power at the low rpm range and no smoke is coming from the exhaust;
if this happens, richen the main needle if you do not want to damage the engine. Once properly
adjusted, the engine should produce a strong, high-pitched sound at maximum speed, and a thin trail
of smoke should be visible from the exhaust tailpipe.
NOTE: The carburetor settings may change with changes in weather conditions, fuel, glow plug or
exhaust system. After changing any of these, always richen the main needle ¼ to ½ of a turn and then
readjust the main needle again on the track.
NOTE: When the engine stops, the heat of the engine will go into the carburetor and alter the idle rpm.
This can translate into a bad idle rpm, especially when you have your idle rpm a little low. This will
come back to normal when you have made at least 1 lap on the track again so the carburetor has
reached its normal working temperature.
Do s
• Keep your engine clean, both internally and externally.
• Inspect your engine on a regular basis.
• Change your glow plug on a regular basis.
• Change your air filter on a regular basis.
• Completely remove the fuel of the engine when you are finished using the engine for the day.
• Always use an appropriate muffler.
and Don'ts
• Don't clean the engine with water.
• Don't use when the engine is not working right.
• Don't run the engine too hot.
• Don't run the engine without an air filter.
• Don't return the engine to the LHS or Dealer without prior approval'.
• Don't use the engine on public streets or highways.
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