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1. Unplug the saw.
2. Loosen the screw, holding the lower guard mounting plate against that of the upper guard using a philips screwdriver.
3. Lift the lower guard up and tilt it back so the arbor screw is exposed.
4. Find the arbor lock between the upper guard and the mitre saw handle. Place the blade-changing spanner over the arbor
screw.
5. Press the arbor lock and hold it firmly while turning the spanner clockwise. The arbor lock will engage after a few turns
of the spanner.
6. Remove the arbor screw, blade collar, and the blade.
NOTE: Pay attention to pieces removed, noting their position and the direction they face (see illustration). Remove any
saw dust from the blade collars before installing the new blades.
7. Install the new 210 mm blade. Make sure the rotation arrow on the blade matches the clockwise rotation arrow on the
upper blade guard.
8. Install the blade collar, and arbor screw. Press the arbor lock and turn the spanner anticlockwise to secure the blade.
Tighten the arbor screw securely.
9. Lower the lower blade guard until the slot in mounting plate rests on the locking screw. Tighten the screw with a philips
screwdriver.
DANGER:
Never use the saw without the mounting plate securely in place. It keeps the arbor screw from falling out if it acci-
dentally loosens, and prevents the spinning blade from coming off the machine.
10. Make sure the arbor lock is released so the blade turns freely.
NOTE: The arbor lock can be damaged by improper use. If the arbor lock does not hold, lower the blade down on to a
scrap piece of wood positioned against the fence. This will serve as an alternate locking means.
11. If the blade touches the table, refer to the assembly and alignment procedures for adjustment.
WARNING:
After installing a new blade, make sure the blade clears the table slot in the 0° and 45° bevel positions. Lower the
blade onto the lower table, making sure that it does not come into contact with the base or table structure.
WARNING:
Do not try to cut short pieces. You cannot properly support the workpiece and keep the hand which holds down the
workpiece at the required distance from the blade.
Fig. 13:
A. Arbor screw
B. Blade Collar
C. Saw blade
16.
CUTTING BOWED MATERIAL (Fig. 14)
Before cutting a workpiece, check to make sure it is not bowed. If it is bowed the workpiece must be positioned and cut as
illustrated. If you do not position the workpiece correctly or if you try to cut the workpiece without the support of the fence,
the workpiece will get pinched by the blade. The workpiece could suddenly jump or move and your hand could hit the blade.
Fig. 14:
A. Correct
B. Incorrect
17.
ANGLE SETTING FOR COMPOUND CUTS (Fig. 15)
A compound cut is a cut requiring both a mitre setting and a bevel setting. This type of cut is used for making frames or boxes
that have sloping sides and are wide at one end and narrower at the opposite end. Compound cuts are "tricky" to make
because the mitre setting and bevel setting are directly related to each other. Every time the mitre setting is changed the
bevel setting must also be adjusted, and vice versa.
Because it may take several tries to obtain the desired angle, it is advisable to make test cuts on a scrap piece of wood.
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