GRAUPNER JOHANN FIDI Montageanleitung Seite 21

onto the command stand (part 49), drill a 3.2 mm Ø hole in the stand for the sleeve, and glue the sleeve in
the hole. Seal the underside of the sleeve with glue, then set the brace to the correct height by cutting it
down to the appropriate length.
•
At this stage the deck can be glued to the hull.
•
Cut out the six glazing panels (parts 106) as shown on the plan, and glue them to the inside of the
superstructure.
•
The two windscreen wipers should be assembled to form a mirror-image pair by gluing the wiper arms
(part 107) to the screen wipers (part 108). Glue the completed wipers to the superstructure, noting that the
pivot axis is located on the window frame.
•
Glue the outer ring of the spinner disc (part 109) to the spinner disc proper (part 110); this part consists of
a fairly large piece of grey-tinted translucent plastic sheet. When the glue has set hard, sand back the
clear material flush with the outer ring. Drill a central 1 mm Ø hole for the retaining screw (part 111) and
glue the screw in the hole, followed by the screw cover (part 112) which conceals the screw slot. Drill a 1.8
mm Ø hole in the front windscreen and carefully screw the spinner disc into it. TIP: if you prefer, you can
just apply the spinner disc decal to the windscreen.
•
Glue the navigation lamps (parts 113) to the superstructure. TIP: if you do not wish to install a working
lighting system, we recommend that you paint the inside of the lamps the appropriate colour; this gives a
convincing scale effect.
•
Cut out the two long fenders (parts 114), sand them flat so that they take up a rounded section when
joined, and glue the parts together. Repeat the procedure with the spherical fenders (parts 115). Now drill
holes in the ends of the fenders for the ropes (parts 116). Leave the ends of the rope about 15 cm long,
and tie the ropes to the fenders. The fenders can now be attached to the model: the long fenders are fixed
to the sides of the model on the gangways, the spherical fenders in the cockpit.
•
Cut out the mast components (parts 117), sand the edges flat and glue them together. NOTE: the mast is
a female moulding, i.e. it was drawn inwards, as shown in the photo in the Appendix; this also shows the
additional areas which have to be cut away; they are marked black. IMPORTANT: when sanding the mast
take care to keep it the same depth along its length. TIP: if you wish to install working lights, you should
deploy the wires in the mast before sealing it: drill out the left-hand lug and run the wires through the hole.
On the full-size boat the power supply for the electrical equipment is also run through the mast at this
point, and then routed into the superstructure back panel.
•
Fill the underside of the mast with UHU acrylit and sand the surface flat when dry. Drill a central 1.5 mm Ø
hole and glue the mast support spigot (part 118) in it. Position the mast centrally on the mast base plate on
the superstructure back panel, then press the mast spigot onto it so that it forms a mark on the base
surface. Drill a 1.5 mm Ø hole at the marked point.
•
Glue the radar unit base plate (part 119) to the mast. Sand the mast flat to accept the masthead light
bearer plate (part 120), then fix the bearer plate to the mast at right-angles. Attach the masthead light base
plate (part 121) to it, again keeping it at right-angles. Finally glue the masthead light (part 122) to the base
plate.
•
Cut out the radar bottom section (part 123) and the top section (part 124) and sand the surfaces flat, then
glue the top section in the bottom section. Ensure that the radar unit remains symmetrical.
•
Prepare the two transverse bearers (parts 125) from lengths of 3 x 3 mm square ABS strip, and cut square
holes in the mast for the bearers. TIP: start by drilling 2.5 mm Ø holes right through the mast, then file the
holes to the correct shape using a square file. Drill two 2 mm Ø holes for the guard bar (spacing approx.
48 mm) in the outside ends of the lower transverse bearers, then glue the guard bar to the mast, keeping it
straight and at right-angles to the mast. Note that the holes in the lower transverse bearers must face the
stern. Glue the two end-caps (parts 126) to the lower transverse bearer.
•
Cut the outer frame of the guard bar (part 127) to length and bend it to approximate shape, so that it fits
exactly in the holes in the transverse bearer. Note that the bar should curve upwards.
•
Drill two angled 2 mm Ø holes in the back of the mast to accept the guard bar reinforcements (parts 128).
The reinforcements can now be prepared: trim the bars accurately to length so that they rest exactly
against the guard bar, and glue them in place using UHU plast spezial.
•
Cut out the searchlight housing (part 129) and sand it flat. Glue the inner part of the searchlight (part 130)
in the housing, noting that it should be recessed by about 2 mm. Now make up the searchlight brace (part
131), drill a 1.5 mm Ø hole in the housing as shown on the plan, and glue the brace in it, positioned
exactly as shown. Glue the searchlight base plate (part 132) to the lower transverse bearer. The
searchlight can now be glued in the base plate.
•
Cut out the Typhoon (part 133) and sand the cut edges flat. File a small groove in the lower transverse
bearer, and glue the typhoon in it.
•
Assemble the three parts of the aerial element (part 134) and glue the joints: the larger plate is the middle
one, while the plain plate (no hole) fits on top. Prepare the aerial brace (part 135) and glue it in the aerial
element. The aerial base plate (part 136) can now be attached to the lower transverse bearer, and the
GRAUPNER GmbH & Co. KG D-73230 KIRCHHEIM/TECK GERMANY
Keine Haftung für Druckfehler. Technische Änderungen vorbehalten! Liability for printing errors excluded. We reserve the right to introduce modifications. Sous réserve de modifications!
Nous ne sommes pas responsables d'éventuelles erreurs d'impression! #0058777
21
11/2007