Krick Modelltechnik Minimoa Bauanleitung Seite 10

Building Instructions Minimoa
The "Minimoa" is one of the world famous German high-performance sailplanes of the pre-WW II period. The design of
this model could be based on original 1936 drawings, guaranteeing true scale and historical correctness.
As with all true scale models, this design is not for beginners and demands sufficient experience in the field of balsa
and plywood model aircraft construction.
Preparations for Fuselage Construction
Cut longerons 3 and 4 to length and cement tail skid 5 to longeron 4. Pin formers 13 onto the building board, but don't
cement them together, cement tongue box spacers 14 through 16 for the left wing tongue in position as shown in sec-
tion B-B, aligning them with tongue sleeve 17. Add covers 18 and then remove sleeve 17 before the cement has set.
When dry, turn the assembly over, pack it up with scrap and pin it to the building board once more. Then add parts 14
through 16 and 18 for the right wing tongue in the same manner. Eventually add gussets 19 and braces 20 and 21.
Prepare former 24 by adding parts 25 through 27 and 29 in the same sequence. Drill 3,5 mm dia. holes for elevator and
rudder pushrod sleeves through formers 13, 23, 24, 32 and 35 through 40.
Cement braces 33 onto formers 32 and cement formers 41 to the front face of formers 42.
Fuselage Construction
Tape fuselage side-view onto the building board and pin parts 1 through 5 in position. Then cement formers 6 through
13, 23, 24 and 32 in position and carefully align them true vertically with a suitable set square before the cement has
set. Then add gussets 22 and 34 as well as longitudinal frames 30 and 31. When dry, cement formers 35 through 44 in
position, align and let dry. Bend fin brace 45 to shape and cement to formers 42 through 44. Add wheel compartment
parts 46 and 48 and then finish this step by adding longeron 47 and tow hook brace 49.
Cement wing root rib 50 to formers 12, 13, 23, 24 and 32 and fix in position with tongue sleeves 17 and 18 untildry. Add
root plankings 51 and 52 and then cement fillets 53 and 54 between formers 11 and 12 and 12 and 13 respectively.
Carve fillet 54 to shape and then cement cockpit frame 55 in position. Slide rudder pushrod sleeves 57 in position and
connect them with coupling 57a, but don't cement them to the formers yet.
Now plank fuselage half with strips 60 and 61 as convenient and let dry thoroughly. Then remove fuselage half from
building board, slide sleeve 57 in correct position and cement it to the formers.
To construct the right fuselage half, brush glow fuel or thin oil over the side-view plan, turn it over, and then build it up in
the same manner as the left half.
When the right fuselage half is finished, too, mark the position of rudder hinges 225, as shown in rudder side-view, on
formers 44 and file 5 mm deep recesses for them. Then cement doubler 62 in front of former 44 of one fuselage half
only and let protrude half of its width.
Roughly sand over the outside of both fuselage halves and then assemble them provisionally with tonque sleeves 17
and 28, which for better handling are longer then eventually needed. When satisfied, take halves apart again, remove
the sleeves, cement halves together with slow epoxy cement and align once more with sleeves 17 and 28.
Press halves together with tape and/or rubber bands, check fuselage for absolute straightness and then hang it up until
epoxy has completely set. Eventually run generous amounts of CA-cement between sleeves and sleeve boxes, cut
sleeves off flush with root ribs 50, remove protruded epoxy from the seems, sand seems over and add cap strips 63
and 64.
Fit and cement wing root nose fillets 65 and wheel compartment fillets 66 and 67 in position, then press and cement
captive nut 69 under stab mounting rib 68 and cement same onto fin stub.
Cement fin fillets 70 to former 71 and then cement them in front of former 44. When dry, add plankings 72 as well as
planking strips 73 and finish fin with stab seats 74, using stab aligning strip 129 as spacer until dry. Cement nose block
halves 75 together, let dry, roughly carve and sand to shape and then cement it to formers 6.
Cover cockpit opening with waxed paper or protect the edges with cellotape. Pin canopy front frame 76 in position and
build up the bent rear frame step by step with pieces cut off the two frame strips 77. Then drill two 2 mm dia. holes for
mounting clips 79 through front frame 76 and longitudinal frames 30 and 31 as shown in top-view. Bend clips 79 to
shape and epoxy them in position. Let cure, remove canopy frame from fuselage, open up holes in frames 30 and 31 to
3 mm dia. and cement mounting tubes 78 in position.
Replace canopy frame, fit and cement formers 80 through 83 onto frame and put thin card pieces between formers 9
and 80 and 83 and 13 to allow for some coats of sanding sealer and lacquer, which will be brushed later on. Then plank
the front lower part of the canopy with planking strips 84, fit the moulded PVC canopy 85 to the fuselage, cut ends of
upper strips 84 to fit the canopy and cut down former 82 accordingly.
Now is the time to carve the nose block and to final sand the fuselage all over. It is advisable, to sand the planking
down to a thickness of about 1,5 mm at the rear, as each gramme saved at the tail saves about 2 grammes of nose
ballast.
Fit skid 86 to the fuselage, taper it according to the shape of doubler 87 and then cement both parts to the fuselage.
Provisionally mount wheel 88 with bush 89, axle 90 and collars 91 and remove it again when satisfied. It won't be finally
fitted before the last coat of paint has dried, same as tow hook 95.
Cement servo brace 93 in position, cut out servo mounts 92 and 94 according to your servos, and fit and screw them in
position. Eventually drill a 1,5 mm dia. hole for the tow hook and then you can put the finished fuselage aside for the
time being.
Seite 10 Klaus Krick Modelltechnik Knittlingen