Kavan VINX Bauanleitung Seite 4

o the K7 2 mm balsa sheet. Sand o the "bridge", round the front edge
(refer to Fig. 30). Insert the ribs into slots in the leading and trailing edges
- into the trailing edge rst, then to the leading edge.
36. Double check the correct alignment of all ribs - trim to get a perfect t if
necessary. Glue the ribs in place with thin cyano.
37. Glue the K4 reinforcement plates onto the K3 wing tips.
38. Sand the bottom side of the wing smooth. Sand only in the direction in-
dicated on the Fig. 38; don't push down too much to prevent damage to
the ribs. The sanding will be quite easy if you glue a wide strip of No. 120
sand paper to a large wooden plate as shown on the Fig. 38.
39. Cover the top side of the ribs with strips of paper masking tape in order
to protect the ribs.
40.-41. Sand the leading edge to the correct shape using the T10 to T13 tem-
plates (template marking - refer to Fig. 42). Use No. 120 sand paper, sand
lightly, do not push too much.
42. Checking the correct shape of the leading edge.
43.-44. Sand the trailing edge using No. 120 sand paper. Sand lightly in the
indicated directions; do not push down too much.
45.-46. Sand to shape the wing tips as well. Remove the masking tape and
sand lightly the entire wing (including ribs) using No. 240 sand paper.
47. Glue together the bevel guide jig consisting of parts P11, P12 and P13
using thick cyano.
48.-49. Carefully separate the wing panels using a razor saw.
50.-51. Align the bevel guide jig with the edge of your building board and
bevel the root and outer ribs of all wing panels.
52.-53. Join the left and right halves of the wing centre section together with
the corresponding outer panels with a strip of masking tape and check
the correct dihedral as shown on Fig. 53.
54. Join the wing halves with a strip of masking tape and check the correct
dihedral as shown on Fig. 54.
55. Round the edge of the K5 2 mm carbon tube.
56.-57. Thread the tube through the ribs of the right wing outer panel and
into the wing tip (refer to Fig. 57).
58. Cut the tube so it sticks out by 3 mm out of the root rib.
59. Thread the tube through the ribs of the right wing centre section so it
sticks out by 3 mm out of the root rib and is sunk by 4 mm in the outer rib.
60. Thread the tube through the ribs of the left wing centre section so it
sticks out by 3 mm out of the outer rib and is sunk by 4 mm in the root rib.
Thread the tube through the ribs of the left wing outer panel and into the
wing tip (refer to Fig. 57) whilst sunk by 4 mm in the root rib.
61. Enlarge the openings in the ribs with 3.5 mm drill bit.
62. Put together the entire wing using strips of masking tape as described
above, double check the correct dihedral. Once satis ed, separate the
wing panels again and glue the carbon tube main spar to the ribs and
wing tips with thin cyano.
Now, if you wish to cover the wing with the ORALIGHT® iron-on lm (cu-
rrently the only light enough iron-on lm available), follow the steps 63
to 80.
If you prefer using the dope & tissue, start with gluing the wing panels
together following steps 77 and 78; then follow the steps 81 and further.
Covering the Wing Using an Iron-on Film
63. Cut a piece of the iron-on lm overlapping the outline of the wing panel
by ca 1 cm. Punch two holes through each rib with a modelling pin in
places indicated by arrows. (When ironing, the air trapped between ribs
heats up and expands - the holes are here to vent it safely.)
64. Set the temperature of your sealing iron for sticking the lm as reco-
mmended by the manufacturer of the iron-on lm. Lay the lm down
on the bottom side of the wing panel and tack the lm to the wing pa-
nel with the tip of your sealing iron in spots and sequence indicated by
arrows and numbers.
65. Iron-on the lm all around the outline as indicated by arrows and num-
bers. Cut the lm around the edges and seal with your sealing iron.
66. Lay the lm down on the top side of the wing panel; it should overlap
the trailing edge by ca 4 mm. Tack the lm to the wing panel with the
tip of your sealing iron in spots and sequence indicated by arrows and
numbers.
67. Iron-on the lm all around the outline as indicated by arrows and num-
bers.
68. Cut the lm around the edges (except for the trailing edge) and seal with
your sealing iron. Iron-on the lm to the trailing edge overlapping to the
bottom side.
69. Punch the covering lm on the bottom side with a modelling pin (see the
arrows). Increase the temperature of your sealing iron for shrinking the
lm as recommended by the manufacturer of the iron-on lm. Shrink the
top and bottom covering lm.
70. Cut a piece of the iron-on lm overlapping the outline of the wing centre
section by ca 1 cm. Punch two holes through each rib with a modelling
pin in places indicated by arrows.
71. Lay the lm down on the bottom side of the wing centre section and tack
www.modellmarkt24.ch
the lm to the wing with the tip of your sealing iron.
72. Iron-on the lm all around the outline as indicated by arrows and num-
bers. Cut the lm around the edges and seal with your sealing iron.
73. Lay the lm down on the top side of the wing centre section; it should
overlap the trailing edge by ca 4 mm. Tack the lm to the wing with the
tip of your sealing iron.
74. Iron-on the lm all around the outline as indicated by arrows and num-
bers.
75. Cut the lm around the edges (except for the trailing edge) and seal with
your sealing iron. Iron-on the lm to the trailing edge overlapping to the
bottom side.
76. Punch the covering lm on the bottom side with a modelling pin (see the
arrows). Increase the temperature of your sealing iron for shrinking the
lm as recommended by the manufacturer of the iron-on lm. Shrink the
top and bottom covering lm.
77. Like in steps 52./53., join the wing centre sections and wing panels - now
using a clear sticky tape. Apply 5min epoxy to the ribs and glue together;
double check the correct dihedral (refer to Fig. 53) before the glue sets.
Remove any excess glue with a paper towel soaked with rubbing alcohol
immediately.
78. Like in step 54., join the wing halves using a clear sticky tape. Apply 5min
epoxy to the ribs and glue together; double check the correct dihedral
(refer to Fig. 54) before the glue sets. Remove any excess glue with a pa-
per towel soaked with rubbing alcohol immediately.
79. Seal the joints with 10 mm wide strips of iron-on lm or clear sticky tape.
Start at the bottom of the leading edge, following to the trailing edge
and then back to the leading edge, overlapping a little bit.
80. Now it is the time to create the indicated washout and washin - these are
critically important to increasing stability and achieving smooth gliding.
Lay the wing down on a at work bench, check the wing twist. The descri-
bed washouts/washin is for right handed pilots and right turn glide; left
handed pilots should go for mirror image setting.
Iron-on Film Covered Wing: Use your sealing iron to heat up both the
bottom and top covering lm of the particular part of the wing, twist it a
little bit more than required with your ngers and hold it that way until
it cools down.
Tissue Covered Wing: Use a heat gun or a pot of hot water as a source of
hot steam to twist the wing as required.
Left Wig Panel: -0.5 mm washout (The trailing edge is higher by 0.5 mm
at the wing tip than at the root.)
Right Wig Panel: -0.5 mm washout
Right Wing Centre Section: +0.5 mm washin (The leading edge is lower
by 0.5 mm at the outer end than at the root.)
Dope & Tissue Covering
Glue together the wing following steps 77 and 78.
81. Sand the glue joints with No. 240 sand paper.
82. Apply two layers of thin protective dope (diluted 1:1), sand with No. 360
sand paper after each layer (except for the last one). Cut two pieces of the
tissue overlapping the outline of the left and right wing halves by ca 1 cm.
83. Apply a coat of adhesive dope to the bottom of the right wing half using a
soft at brush; put the tissue on and press it lightly to the ribs and leading
and trailing edges with your ngers, smoothing it. If the tissue does not
stick enough to the wing frame, brush adhesive dope through the tissue.
84. Apply a coat of adhesive dope to the bottom of the left wing half; put the
tissue on and press it lightly to the wing with your ngers, smoothing it. If
the tissue does not stick enough to the wing frame, brush adhesive dope
through the tissue. Once the dope sets, cut the tissue along the edges
and brush adhesive dope to smooth it and stick to the wing.
85. Apply a coat of adhesive dope to the top of the left wing outer panel; put
the tissue on and press it lightly to the wing with your ngers, smoothing
it. If the tissue does not stick enough to the wing frame, brush adhesive
dope through the tissue. Once the dope sets, cut the tissue along the
edges and brush adhesive dope to smooth it and stick to the wing.
86. Apply a coat of adhesive dope to the top of the left wing centre section;
put the tissue on and press it lightly to the wing with your ngers, smoo-
thing it. If the tissue does not stick enough to the wing frame, brush adhe-
sive dope through the tissue. Once the dope sets, cut the tissue along the
edges and brush adhesive dope to smooth it and stick to the wing. Cover
the left wing half in the same manner.
87. Prepare the wing jig; glue the P14 and P15 balsa blocks to a at board. The
jig allows to "build-in" the required washouts/washin (refer to Fig. 80) and
will keep the wing warped in the desired way whilst the dope is curing.
Apply a coat of thin shrinking dope (diluted 1:1) to the entire surface of the
wing; leave it dry a little bit. Once the dope is not sticky anymore, put the
wing onto the jig and secure by modelling pins. Leave it pinned down
until the dope is cured completely (depending on dope 12-24 hours).
In total, apply 3 coats of thin shrinking dope and then 3 coats of thin pro-
tective dope. Lightly sand every layer (except for the last one) with No.
400-660 sand paper. You can apply the stickers then.
88. Cut the covering lm/tissue over the hole for the K9 launching pin; on
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