Multiplex DG - 300 Bauanleitung Seite 29

Cut a small slot centrally in the elevator to accept the horn 14. lt is
essential
that the horn be glued in place very securely, to ensure that
the servo force is elficiently transmitted
to the elevator.
Bemove a little
foam on either side of the horn and glue it in place using plenty 0f
s-minute epoxy; the horn must face baclwalds. While the glue is
hardening,
the horn can be held in place lightly with a clothes peg
which js attached to the side of the horn and Dacked up with a suitable
suooort.
The next stage is to mount the tailplane
on the lin. First lile away the
fin at lhe rear 0f the tailplane support as shown in the drawing, t0
ensure that the elevator
bellcrank is not obsÜucted.
Hold the tailplane
on the fin, and check that the crank moves freely.
Mark the position ol the tailplane fixing screw on the fin. The tailplane
is correctly positioned when its real bottom edge is in line with the
lront edge of the bevelled
part of the fin (see drawing).
lrark the position of the hole with a felt-tip pen, and drill it centrally in
the tailplane support, using a 5 m.m. drill.
The tailplane is now altached to the fin, using the plastic screw 16 and
caDtive nut 15. The shaft ol the captive nut must point downward.
Align the tailplane carefully,
then invert the luselage
and spofglue the
captive nut in place with 5-minute epoxy. The nut is then securely
glued in place with thickened epoxy resin. Belore applying the resin,
apply wax t0 the plastic screw 16 and screw it into the nut. This will
avoid resin clogging
up the threads.
Drill a 4 m.m. 0 hole centrally
in the tailplane support, 10 m.m. lrom
the front edge, to accept the head ol the self-tapping
screw 17, which
serves to locate the tailplane.
Screw the tailplane in place and align it accurately. To d0 this, fix a
length 0l strong thread to the canopy latch, and measure to both tips of
the tailplane.
Rotate the tailplane un{il both distances are the same.
The position ol the lront hole is now marked on the tailplane from the
underside
of the tailplane
support.
To do this, glue a lelltip pen at
righlangles to a small wooden stick, to allow you to work inside the
fin.
Remove the tailplane and screw the self-tapping
screw 17 into the
tailplane where marked. Check that the tailplane now locates accurat-
ely, then remove the screw, apply plenty of s-minute epoxy, and
screw it in again.
Thc elevator linkage
Solder the ouicklink
20 to the steel pushrod 18. To d0 this, bend the
final 2 m.m. ol the steel rod at right-angles,
and thread the quicklink
onto the rod lrom the other end. Thoroughly
roughen up the steel rod
where it is to be soldered.
Pass the steel Dushrod into the elevator bowden cable outer, and
connect the quicklink to the bellcrank. Make up the main pushrod
lrom parts 22,23 and 24. Screw one metal quicklink
onto each M2
threaded rod, fit the wooden plugs into the pushrod, and plug in the
threaded rods. Assemble
the pushrod "dry", and lit it in the fuselage
with the tailplane mounted on the lin. Mark the correct length 0f the
threaded rods, then remove and dismantle the pushrod, cut the
threaded rods to length, and bend a small hook on the inside end. Glue
the threaded rods and wooden plugs into the pushrod, using s-minute
ep0xy.
Install the pushrod and adjust it. When the elevator is neutral, the
crank must be horizontal.
Working from the cockpit, check that the
entire system works smoothly and with minimal slop.
l{ol€: Please check that the horn is fitted in the correct position: it must
be inclined backward.
lf it faces lorward, the overall etficiency ol the
linkage is greatly impaired.
Cut holes lor the rudder hinge lugs in the lin post 13 where marked.
The hinge lugs consist ol control surface horns 14. Drill out the horn
holes to a diameter of 2 m.m. Check lor freedom of rotation by
threading
them onto the rudder pivot tube 32. The lugs themselves are
not glued in until a later stage.
,o
Ruddel
Glue the top block 28 to the rudder and sand the front face flush. Glue
the leading edge sealing strip 30 to the front lace of the rudder, and
sand the edges llush.
Mark the centreline
on the sealing strip 30 from top t0 bottom, and
glue the pivot tube 31 exactly al0ng this line. Cut it off flush at both
ends, then fit the packing strips 25 on either side ol the tube and sand
their outside edges llush. Glue the remainder
of strip 30 to the lront
face ol the rudder, and sand llush on all sides.
The next stage - rounding ofl the rudder leading edge - is one which
has to be carried out with especial care, as it determines
the appear-
ance of the entire lin/rudder group. Befer t0 the sections l0r the
proper prolile, and continually
plug it into the fin to check progress.
Glue the bottom block 29 to the rudder, sand it flush and round ofl the
lront lace. The edges of the top and bottom blocks should only be
rounded off slightly, as 0n the lull-size aircraft.
Sand th€ trailing edge
to a maximum thickness
ol 1 m.m.
The position ol the rudder hinges is now marked on the rudder. To do
this, plug the hinge lugs into the fin post 13 and clamp them in place if
necessary
using small wooden wedges. Position the rudder carefully
and press it against the hinge lugs. This will result in a small dent in
the front face 0f the rudder, which is your relerence
poinl.
At the two marked points, saw a horizontal slot to accept the hinge
lugs, using a thin hacksaw
blade, and lile it out to a width 0f 2 m.m.
using a small needle file. The slot must be deep enough for the pivot
tube to be cut right through, but the wooden strip behind it should not
be grooved too deeply.
Slide the inner oivot tube 32 into the rudder, threading the hinge lugs
onto it as you 90. The rudder can now be fitted lo the fin by plugging in
the hinge lugs. Check that it rotates freely, and make any adjustments
that are necessary.
To ensure that the rudder is mounted centrally in the fin, thin strips 0f
card of the same thickness are litted between the fin and the rudder on
both sides. Take care here that the rudder is not pushed s0 far into the
fin that its angle of movement to either side is restricted. Apply
s-minute epoxy to the rudder hinge lugs, and plug the rudder into the
lin 0nce more, exactly as iust set up. After the glue has hardened,
apply more glue lrom the rear to reinforce the ioints, working through
the opening in the top side. Check that the rudder is free to move;there
should be at least 30' available on both sides.
Pass the steel rod 18 into the rudder bowden cable outer, and mark
where it crosses the rudder. Cut a slot for the rudder horn 14 and
remove the foam inside the slot. Glue the rudder horn 14 in place,
using plenty 0f s-minute epoxy, checking that it has adequate
clearance
to the fuselage side when the rudder is dellected.
Bend the
final 10 m.m. ol the steel rod 18 at 90'and connect it t0 the rudder
horn. There is no need lor any other means ol securing the pushrod in
the horn.
When the model has been completed,
the inner pivot tube 32 can be
cut oft llush with the top of the rudder. lf it is ever necessary t0 remove
the rudder, the pivot tube can be gripped by screwing a pointed needle
lile into it, and withdrawn easily.
The wings
The first stage in completing
the wings is to sand down the trailing
edges carelully. The thickness 0f the trailing edges should be n0 more
than 1 m.m., and it is important that they should be ol even thickness.
Take particular care when sanding the aileron; support the wing in its
loam packing while you are sanding. The corners of the tripleJapered
wing must not be rounded otf.
Separate the ailerons as shown in the drawing, and shorten them by 7
m.m. to provide clearance
for the end sealing strips. Sand the lront
edge exactly straight. The rounded corners produced by the milling
Drocess should be trimmed out square.